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Yes, I remember the switch.... It was sticking up too high and was too easily broken. BTW, the same exact switch, maybe except for color, was used in the Magnum Energy MS inverters except they were recessed so they didn't break so easily. At least that lesson was learned.
It's a momentary normally open pushbutton switch I think. Maybe you could just solder something like this in its place ? Digikey has quite a few buttons that might work. This is a picture of a Grayhill series 46 switch. I thought that Alco might have something similar but there's probably lots that will work OK.
This is pretty low power for a typical MPPT controller system. About 30 watts maybe ? Hard for me to tell voltages too closely but low PV voltage looks to be around 16.x volts and high current maybe 2 amps or so ?
What is the current scale reading ? If it's the battery current, then it kinda looks like the maximum power point PV voltage is more like 16 or 16.5 volts, which is corresponding to maximum power into the battery. (If showing Batt current) That should be OK for a low battery.
MPPT controllers will normally have some amount of voltage drop between battery voltage and PV voltage at however close to 100% duty cycle it can obtain. A higher input voltage will help that issue.
Also, if it's battery voltage being shown, if it is measuring the MPP voltage accurately, looks like the MPP V happens when the controller first drops the PV input voltage down low and would be wasting energy the rest of the time since it is off the max power point. That would
always be the case too it is always changing. Again, it's hard to read max power point at low powers, but it would not change in a sawtooth pattern like this.
Even it it's measuring PV current, they will both be pretty close at this small-ish voltage difference.
Just 2 cents for today.
10,000 feet, eh ? The modules should put out a bit more up that high. Less air for cooling too. I know that Classics have been operating up at that high of altitude but I haven't been to any of those installations so I'm not sure what to expect.
Maybe just try it and report back ? The Classic may limit itself, current-wise. If it does limit the current, it does this by raising the input voltage and so the Classic MAY get a bit hotter.
While under charge with a good amount of current into the batteries, check the temperature of the batteries, if even just with your hands to see if one of them is HOT. A temperature imaging camera is the best but we don't always have one of those laying around.
Temperature seems a good way to find where all the extra wattage is going.