Raj174 ✭✭✭✭

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Raj174
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  • Re: Cost effective backup system, with future solar

    PeteS said:
    If the system will ever grow 48V should be used and hi voltage charge controllers make this so very easy. Outback is suppose to have them out next year. A schneider CSW 4048 and its 600v mppt could be looked at. Are you sure you can't build a pergola in the yard to stay off your roof?
    Dave, that's very nice. I timber framed my last house, barn and woodshed. I could make one of those.
    Raj174 said:
    Keep an eye on the charging current, you don't want to cook those batteries.
    Rick, what did you mean by this this? Cook them by undercharging, or overcharging?

    Maybe I should consider a 48V battery bank. Since the batteries are primarily for grid outages, I was trying to keep costs down, but another $1400 for four more batteries and cables isn't a huge amount compared to the overall cost. The problem is that I may then consider a more expensive inverter, more panels, etc.

    Pete,
    Spring to Fall the arrays have the potential to produce more charging amps than is recommended for your 428 amp hour battery bank. Even with an east/west configuration, they may produce as much as 70 amps depending on your location. Max recommended for your bank is about 55 amps, so you might have to set the current limit in the controller. Just recommend keeping an eye on the charging once up and running.

    Rick 
  • Re: Cost effective backup system, with future solar

    Hi Pete,
    If you're going with east/west arrays you need to base the array size on getting sufficient power production to charge the battery bank in the winter. Winter production will likely be 1/3 that of summer. If you haven't already, go to PVWatts and enter the array data for your location. That will give you an estimate of what your array configuration will produce. The system will definitely be over paneled in the summer months, but you can set the current limit in the controller to 55 amps, which is a 13% charge rate for you battery bank. No harm will come to the charge controller by being over paneled. I would definitely use a combiner box and recommend getting a box that will take 6 strings, you may need it. Two controllers might work better, but I would't go to that expense without first trying virtual tracking with one controller. 

    Rick 
  • Re: Solar powered switch

    I believe it has both N/O and N/C contacts.
  • Re: Going nuts need input!

    Ok guys thanks for the input will I kill my controller with that setup? I wish I had a 24v 2000w pure sign wave charger so I could up my voltage. But dumb me got a 12v one
    No, the Classic can handle it, no problem. Yep, 24 volt would be better. Have you called them to see if they will swap the inverter out?

    Rick 
  • Re: Help in understanding the data from my MT50 meter?

    Welcome to the forum novaop,
    It is saying that the battery is full and you have no load on the battery. 
    The PV input is determined by the battery.  37.2 x 1.1 = 40.92 divided by battery voltage 14.4 = 2.9 amps

    Rick