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Photowhit
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  • Re: Batteries not reaching float

    Batteries out gas, some of it will be acidic, If you only had out gassing and didn't have a battery filler system in place that some how continued to force water into the bank or some other catastrophe, batteries knocked over, I would not add acid.

    I don't know how Outbacks do equalizing, but I don know, in general, equalizing doesn't require a lot of energy. I would thing you would be better served to charge the batteries in the morning with the generator and then let the charge controller equalize the batteries.

    There are other reasons for batteries going bad other than age! I suspect you may have been working the original set very hard before adding the 2nd set of batteries. Without them being the same make, model and age, they will have different internal resistance and one string will do more work than the other.

    Measuring the voltage when just pulled off of the system will not tell you anything, they should be very close in voltage. If you can, take the whole system off line for a few hours, then you will find it easier to see what batteries you are having problems with. If you compare measurements just after and 4 hours later you may find cells that have enough sulfates collected in the bottom to create minor shorting across the plates.

    Again, removing one set may increase your systems capacity. Try charging then equalizing, just the new set of batteries! I didn't go back to the old thread, but I believe the new batteries have a SG indicating they are at 75-80% of capacity and the old set, 60%. Both of these would indicate major sulfating on the plates. It's likely adding acid will just create higher density of acid in the electrolyte and there will be no place for the sulfate to go if you can get it to recombine.

    I think one person here equalized for several days to recover some Rolls batteries that had been chronically under charged. Batteries must first be completely charged. Are you using end amps for your charging profile? I think the Classic's basic charging is just to maintain a timed set voltage for an hour, with diminished capacity will allow that to happen very quickly, you might set absorb to 3 hours and then manually equalize. Also check your equalizing voltage, No reason to not push it up if you have a Temperature sensor, 62 volts (or even a bit more) have lots of distilled water on hand and really push them around, you are intentionally over charging the batteries!

    I hope I wasn't derogatory, we all are learning. I have a bad cell in my battery bank, I suspect it was poisoned (I worked security in a community I lived in). One of my cells had the electrolyte that was very dark, from a couple months after the battery arrived. It lived outside, unlocked... Well end of last summer the cell cleared up, I didn't think much about it, and had skipped that months SG measuring. When I did the following month that cell was around 1.20! I worked on it equalizing often through the cloudy fall, by January, it was 1.265 and guess what? The cell had gone back to being very dark. When this thing dies, I'm going to pull the electrolyte from that cell and see if someone can tell me what's in there that shouldn't be...
  • Re: Batteries not reaching float

    Sounds like you added new batteries to old? Not something that is advised unless the batteries are very close to new.

    How old are your old batteries?

    Are the batteries the same Make model, size?

    It sounds as if your old batteries are shot, have minimal capacity left. I think I would first remove that string and see if you can get the new batteries to come up and equalize. If you have no budget to replace, I would look to reduce loads to use just the newer string of batteries. You may find you have as much or even more capacity, than you currently have as the old string won't draw energy off the new string.
  • Re: can my setup be run 24/7

    How are you measuring your load? does the server say 130 watts or have you measured it?

    The batteries are simple, I don't know what the manufacturer considers a 'cycle', but likely you are already there. They are designed to start an engine and have the alternator top off the battery.

    The low battery shut off in your inverter, only insures that you don't drain your battery so low it will never recharge. In fact, the low voltage shut off is lower than I would suggest taking a battery.