Need to test a Kyocera LA361G51S

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System
System Posts: 2,511 admin
I'm looking for a link to OR some advice on how to test the parts of a solar panel. I haven't done anything more than kid's style things with a solar panel and just acquired a Kyocera that's been out of commission for a while. It's hooked up to a Dankoff solar pump controller and a Dankoff Solar Slow pump. I'm just trying to find some info on how to test each part without zapping myself or whatever. It hasn't worked in a couple years, and does have an automatic adjusting arm that allows it to follow the sun's trajectory. It may just need a new fuse in the controller? I don't know. I'm looking for some step by step info on just TESTING the panel, because the other parts will come later, though if someone wants to lay it all on me, all the better!!!

Thanks!!:D

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  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,456 admin
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    Re: Need to test a Kyocera LA361G51S

    I just answered, I think, a similar question on this thread:

    Verifying panel performance before installation

    Solar panels are pretty rugged (open circuit, short circuits don't hurt them). However, do not connect them "backwards" to a battery--that will kill them.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Need to test a Kyocera LA361G51S

    first off, find out what kind of open circuit voltage you are getting. use a dmm and aim the pv fairly close to the sun noon at around solar noon. compare that to the specs of the pv. if that's ok then use a dmm to test the short circuit current of the pv. be careful in setting this up as it could blow out a meter if done wrongly. a dmm often needs to have the + lead changed to another often unfused banana plug or post on the meter and make very sure it is in amps on the meter and on the proper scale. once you have done this, compare this also to the published specs for the pv. once in awhile you could run into no output because of a blown diode or fuse if it has this inside the jbox on the back of the pv.
    there were several past threads that have addressed testing of pvs and you could search for them. as to finding out bad cells or fixing them, you will find this to be very difficult to test for and fixing it to be nearly impossible to do even if you could determine bad cells. the pv will either meet specs or not and if not it is bad.