I HAD A CRAZY IDEA

akadocakadoc Registered Users Posts: 4
Hello everyone. I'm new here. i found a conversation recently and decided to join and see just how crazy i am lol. i plan on traveling a lot. i also plan on customizing my truck and my toy hauler. I think that the hauler would be a great wind platform. No. Not like you all, where you set up a turbine and wait for the wind to find you. I want to hook up a modified turbine to the roof of my toy hauler. i want to put in a set of batteries inside the hauler. so it'll be just like any other wind charging system except i will generate my own wind. why not charge batteries while im driving? Then when i get to where im going, ill have fully charged batteries. I want to hook up 12v outlets and usb's to the batteries. Virtually everything runs on this anyway. so, i need to figure out what i need. (im smart enough to know how dumb i am) I can figure out how to mount and find space for everything. i just want to know how to do it safely and to have a workable, efficient system. I mean down to the gauge of wiring etc. HELP. I think i have a great idea. Yes, i'm nuts but if it works, why not? ill have power for lights, small appliances, computer, cellphones etc etc. I am truly looking forward to hearing your informed, intelligent, brilliant suggestions. GO FOR IT. ty.

Comments

  • Ralph DayRalph Day Solar Expert Posts: 871 ✭✭✭
    Some of the most obvious problems...drag.  The extra fuel you'll burn because  of the extra drag would probably fuel a nice generator to charge your batteries.  A toyhauler with a good sized roof area could hold a lot of pv panels which would charge batteries while you're driving.  Not to mention the physical stresses of a wind turbine in 60-70mph winds generated while you drive!  The list probably goes on.
  • mcgivormcgivor Registered Users Posts: 1,214 ✭✭✭✭
    Unfortunately aerodynamic drag will reflect directly in increased fuel consumption, no matter how you attempt to do it, even an alternator driven by the engine would have the same results. Solar panels mounted aerodynamically would be about the closest you could get to a free lunch, but I like the way you're thinking  ;)

      1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider 150 60 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 8×T105 GC 24V nominal 

  • Marc KurthMarc Kurth Solar Expert Posts: 411 ✭✭✭✭
    Alternator charging works well when it is done right, and only creates extra load when the batteries need charging. When they are full, they don't draw any appreciable current. Since you are already pulling a toy box, you will not be able to measure any fuel consumption change while charging a small/mid sized battery bank.

    Solar is great for this purpose and we see it being applied on trailers almost daily, with great results.



    I always have more questions than answers. That's the nature of life.
  • mcgivormcgivor Registered Users Posts: 1,214 ✭✭✭✭
    Good point @Marc Kurth what to do with the power generated when the batteries are full, division controller, hot water tank? Sounds complicated.
      1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider 150 60 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 8×T105 GC 24V nominal 

  • EstragonEstragon Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭✭
    This is done on sailboats, and can work well. Beating into a 15kt wind puts you in a good range for small turbines, but I doubt there are many that will take 70+mph.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • akadocakadoc Registered Users Posts: 4
    thank you all. yes, i like thinking outside the box. im certain that there are turbines that i can get/make that can take the wind pressure and revolutions. As for the shaft and other parts, well i can always gear it down so that the system doesn't have to deal with the high revolutions/heat/wear. the next thought was that i would set up an alarm so that it will notify me when the batteries are 100%. at that point i can either put an electrical "shut off" between the alternator and the batteries or just program the charging control unit. more likely i will (possibly in addition to), go the physical route. meaning ill take the turbine offline and possibly even cover it to prevent rotation. im not worried about the gas mileage, towing a 3500lb trailer is going to make enough of a dent, i dont think a 6 inch across turbine is going to reduce my mpg much more. To answer some of you, i am already planning on using the roof of the trailer for panels, making a clear plastic case and a separate battery bank inside the tailer for that. this one was to be a small model, one or two batteries with a small turbine and a micro alternator. very small system. then ill put the usb's etc in a panel in the back on the side. i also have military grade flexible panels - 200w that are sewn into a roll up fabric that i can just throw over the hood of the truck or whatever. (1999 mits montero sport). ive created a "tankless water heater" for the truck as well, water storage tanks under the running boards, run hoses to the engine where they combine to one. that hose serpentines around under the hood, covering as much out of the way space as possible, then exits the engine bay to an actual hose bib, i hook a hose to this, i have a small usb pump, a ten foot retractable pole that goes into my hitch, (usually has a 40led light on it) i hook up the hose and put a shower head on the end. viola! instant hot water shower anywhere i go camping. i need the juice to run things like that. lots of other ideas too.
  • mryimmersmryimmers Solar Expert Posts: 97 ✭✭
    I think your already present alternator will do a lot for you, there are usually higher current options available, or some vehicles can be set up with 2 alternators. But playing around is fun too, have at it!!!!!!
    510 watt pv, TS-MPPT 60, Exeltech XP1100, XP600 & XP250 @ 24V, 4x Trojan 105RE, Trimetric 2030, Yamaha EF2400i gen.
  • Ralph DayRalph Day Solar Expert Posts: 871 ✭✭✭
    I had visions of my Bergey XL1 with a 9 foot rotor disc span...not 6 inches in diameter.  My bad.  Have fun.
  • akadocakadoc Registered Users Posts: 4
    no, no bad @Ralph Day , thats what this is for, info and whimsy lol. thank you for the update. im also looking into a way to leach the power from my current alternator,  @mryimmers , i believe i read in one of the threads that the excess power generated in the car, once the battery is at capacity, its somehow discharged?  well i could live quite easily off of that excess capacity. any thoughts on that crazy thought lol. see, i KNOW how dumb i am hahaha, but i try to make it an asset. free thinking with no constraints. THANK YOU all for your continued patience. im sure some things i "think up" are old hat to you all. i look forward to more!!
  • mcgivormcgivor Registered Users Posts: 1,214 ✭✭✭✭
    edited July 23 #11
    The alternator has the potential to supply power once the start battery is fully charged, using that potential would add load to the engine, thereby increasing fuel consumption, the added consumption as you pointed out is not a concern. Under normal conditions when the battery is fully charged,  the  voltage regulator would simply reduce the current, the load to the engine would be minor electrical and belt friction, so in essence there is no excess, just a potential to use the available capacity going unused. Sounds like you are having fun. 
      1500W, 6× Schutten 250W Poly panels , Schneider 150 60 CC, Schneider SW 2524 inverter, 8×T105 GC 24V nominal 

  • EstragonEstragon Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭✭
    Also, a standard car alternator may not be designed to run at full rated output for extended periods.
    Off-grid.  
    Main daytime system ~4kw panels into 2xMNClassic150 370ah 48v bank 2xOutback 3548 inverter 120v + 240v autotransformer
    Night system ~1kw panels into 1xMNClassic150 700ah 12v bank morningstar 300w inverter
  • akadocakadoc Registered Users Posts: 4
    thank you @mcgivor , you can tell i try to live up to your names sake lol, i plan on talking to a few mechanics on the car part. from what i understand of what you replied, the voltage regulator is the gatekeeper lol. the alternator is already running so its no additional "cost" and the vr effective cuts off the flow when the battery is full, following the logic, a controller could manage where the energy is to go once the starting battery is full. i think thats manageable . the other side, if the alt doesnt have enough excess generation capacity, can the cars system tolerate a larger alternator? or fry stuff. an example fo the questions, i try to think logically and lowest cost easiest to build, there are micro alternators out there designed to run at hi revs, theres lots of solutions. im leaning towards a second alternator i think. then decide on how to drive it, prob the car, its already set up for it already, just another bracket or to ta mcgyver lol. wire it autonomous to the car. i also want to repeat that same system for when i get to where im going.ill set up a wind mill at location in addition to panels but i wanna do the stationary bike deal to drive the alt. get my exercise at the same time i generat, then just switch the belt back over to windmill. just trying to find a way to always have ample juice

  • bill von novakbill von novak Solar Expert Posts: 694 ✭✭✭✭
    akadoc said:

    the other side, if the alt doesnt have enough excess generation capacity, can the cars system tolerate a larger alternator?
    Yes, and that is very common (as is going to higher voltage alternators.)
    ill set up a wind mill at location in addition to panels . . . .
    This, in general, never works.  You have to get a wind turbine up high (as in 30 feet higher than any nearby trees) and that simply isn't possible with an easily portable rig.
    but i wanna do the stationary bike deal to drive the alt. get my exercise at the same time i generat, then just switch the belt back over to windmill.
    That's possible, but keep in mind that you'll be generating about 100 watts with the stationary bike, and that's much easier to do with a cheapo hub motor (for example) than a remountable larger motor, which will have different shaft loading and speed requirements.
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