Diesel Truck: Solar Maintenance Charger for Batteries

Re: suggestion for solar panel / charge controller

Mark,

I know what you're talking about. My father had a 1983 6.2L diesel that he hated in the winter. Gelled up during a bad cold spell. Long story. Anyway, why not something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-2017-Solar-Battery-Charger/dp/B000VHT9GS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1264942149&sr=8-1

This should be backward protected from discharge. The other brands didn't get good reviews.

Otherwise you'd be spending $$ over some expensive equipment components. Or just drive it often enough to maintain a charge.

Re: suggestion for solar panel / charge controller

You're right. There isn't anything out there that would do the trick. 1.5 watts I think I've read on one similar. Hardly the wattage needed, however, he may be fighting a lost cause. Two batteries that don't hold a charge for at least two weeks seems to me a battery system failing. The plates may be degraded enough to cause issues or their sulfurizing. I use a desulferizing PWM on all my equipment and you can tell when the green light goes out within a couple weeks, the batteries are weak. A better option may be to have the batteries load tested. I'm sure someone at a close by garage has one. Or the starter motor is drawing too much current or worse yet, failing itself.

My 1992 L8000 Dump Truck has 3-12v batteries in parallel. It does just fine after sitting for a month. His system may still be 24v in assuming 1990 like stated. Shortly after, all the semis and diesels went to parallel systems, I believe. In his case, if 24v system then that's absorbing some heavy current to actuate the starter motor. Good batteries may be the only option that I see.

http://www.compactappliance.com/Wagan%20Solar%20Car%20Battery%20Charger%20-%202017/2017,default,pd.html

This link as more info, but not the wattage we're looking for. It's a mystery and pretty much worthless for a 24v system.

Re: Diesel Truck: Solar Maintenance Charger for Batteries

Hello, Mark. You will need at least two 10 watt panels: http://store.solar-electric.com/so10wamusopa.html if not two 20 watt: http://store.solar-electric.com/so20wamusopa.html plus two of the larger blocking diodes here: http://store.solar-electric.com/diodes.html To answer your question about "how do you know if you need a blocking diode?", the answer is that all good solar panels need them, unless they are being used with a charge controller. Charge controllers have blocking diodes inside already.

Only the made in China, and screwed together in Canada panels that are sold under 1,000 different names (Coleman, Sunforce, Northern Tool, and Sunsei are the 4 most popular) don't need diodes. So how do you tell if a panel fits that description, if it isn't one of the four I just listed? That's easy. If it has any plastic whatsoever visible from the front, it has the diode built into the panel. Also, a good way to tell is if you bought it from WalMart, Amazon, CostCo, or the other "usual" places.

BTW, Windsun must have been drinking when he put the disclaimer on the 20 watt panel that I linked.8) That should read "You will need to use a charge controller with this panel if you are using it with smaller than an 80 Ah battery bank", not the 800 Ah he mentions. A 36V golf cart has considerably less than an 800 Ah battery bank.

Re: set up to recharge truck batteries

I have a Ford 7.3L that doesn't get driven more than a couple of times a month, if that. I have a 65W panel hooked thru a 7.5A controller and it does the job of keeping the batts charged up just fine, even with the weeks of no sun we've had lately (unusual for this area).

Too late for me to buy a Dodge, Solarvic!

Also, Mark, you likely don't have a tuner BUT...

I have an Edge Evolution II on mine and the tuner draws 90ma all the time. The phantom load on the Ford is also 90ma, so I normally unhook the tuner if it's gonna be parked for a few weeks (normal). It took me some time to learn that a 180ma constant draw would cause starting problems after 3 or 4 weeks.

I drove the Ford today and it was a little sluggish starting. It's cold, been weeks since very much sun, and I noticed this morning that I forgot to unhook the tuner. Oh, well, it started. Glad I brought it to work today as another week may have meant jumper cables.

Phil[/QUOTE]
Sorry about the post about getting a dodge. I don,t mean to be smug but I honestly think they start better in cold weather. Have a friend that had his dodge a few years before I got mine and he didn,t even know it had a block heater. Auto transmissions seem to be dodge weak points. I had to get mine rebuilt in mine. I was thinking if you had the Dodge cummins engine, Chevys Allison transmission in a ford body that would be a preety good truck. I have an interstate battery that was in the truck. I left it set all winter last year because the trans. went and it still started in the early summer so I could get the trans fixed. So I hope you guys get these trucks to keep the batterys charged. My brother who lives near raliegh Nc has a late model ford diesel that he said he keeps plugged in in the winter so it will start. the ford repairman said they are designed to turn over a few times before they start so the oil pressure builds up a little before it starts. Maybe a good idea to save engine wear, if it is so. Maybe we would drive our diesels if it was a little cheaper. In my area diesel fuel is usually if not higher price than high test gasoline. I know a couple guys that burn the oil from thier gaswells in thier trucks. One reason I bought mine was I was going to try that too but not getting too much oil from the gaswell anymore. Be nice for you gys to get them batterys charged on your trucks. S:Dlarvic