Clarification on Generator input

jcheil · October 2014

OK, I am hoping someone can clarify something that is confusing me.
I have a 2 vfx3648's stacked producing 240v. I have a Honda EU7000is Generator.
I am trying to figure out the "right" settings on the mate3 for the generator to maximize charging/loads but not overload the generator.

The generator (according to the manual) says:
Maximum Power is 7.0kVA, Continuous operation do not exceed 5.5kVA (ever other generator I have owned always rated it in watts - part of the confusion).

It also states, the generator in 240v configuration (the way I have it now), each leg of the two hot legs of the 4-prong 120/240 plug have a total available current of 22.9A each. Their exact wording is (prong) 4A 22.9A, (prong) 4B 22.9A. Again, 4A and 4B are the two hot legs of the 120/240 4-prong receptacle. This receptacle has a 30amp breaker on it (which confuses me more - is that 30A per leg and if it can only put out 22.9 that seems like a BIG breaker???)

The VFX3648 states a 45A built-in charger. And the Mate3 allows me to set the amount (max) going to the charger (for each port/inverter). So I guess I have 90A "available" from the charger correct?

(for example in what I have tested)
What I can't understand is that I set the Mate3, "Input Current Limit Generator" to a 18AAC.
And looking at the mate3 I see the following:
Port 1 (Master inverter):
Generator 2.1KW 18A
Charger 1.8KW 15A
Loads 0.3KW 3A

Port 2 (Slave inverter):
Generator 2.2KW 18A
Charger 1.6KW 14A
Loads 0.4KW 4A

When I look at the display on the Honda it shows 5700vA output - 3100rpm. Those numbers don't seem to "jive"?

But I can crank up the "Input Current Limit Generator" to say 29amps (which I am still unsure if that is per leg or total).
Now the generator display states 6800vA, RPM's go up to 3200-ish. And the charger current in the inverter(s) goes up (as expected).

I guess (from previous discussions), I was under the impression from Bill and Coot's explanation, that a 5500watt generator would allow me maximum charge rate from the two inverters. I'm not complaining or anything guys, you have been an amazing help, I'm just a tad confused and wonder if I am doing something wrong or if this is what I am to expect? Again, please don't take that the wrong way - it's difficult to get the proper meaning/feeling across when "typing".

So am I correct in understanding that the AAC "IN" setting on the mate is for each "Leg"?
Also, is that correct that I should be going by the Honda Display and not exceeding the 5500vA they state or do I look at some number on the Mate3?

Thanks again in advance for your help. I very much appreciate it!

gww1 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

I have the grid tie gvfx 3648. I had thought on it that it had a 20amp max charge and that it was set at default for 18 amps and that the inverter could prosses 50 amp max with 20 going to the battery and 30 going to the loads. This is what I think I remember I could have dreamed it.

Have you ever visited here

http://outbackpower.com/forum/index.php?sid=2f1ec936ec7eb584c9f67f32b723e85a

It is not a real active site, but if someone decides to chime in they are usualy smarter then me altough I do answer there in the same sick fassion I do here. Sometimes one of the techs will even answer.

Good luck
gww

gww1 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

I am pretty sure it is for each leg. also the inverters if stacked for 240, and not using a transformer, is one leg per inverter and the chargers have to be scrolled through individually buy pressing port 1 or port 2. I don;t have the mate 3 but that is how it is on the mate.
gww

gww1 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

What happens if you put the "current imput limit" at 22.9 instead of 18?
gww

Blackcherry04 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

The VFX3648 states a 45A built-in charger. And the Mate3 allows me to set the amount (max) going to the charger (for each port/inverter). So I guess I have 90A "available" from the charger correct?

Yes, but it's in DC amps on the charger, the Mate is in AC amps. @ 48 v it's a 2.xx ratio.

What I can't understand is that I set the Mate3, "Input Current Limit Generator" to a 18AAC.

Change the ACin to what ever you want ( 22 amps if you want ), The charger is cutting itself back to stay within the Aac 18 amp limit. 15 amps to the charger and 3 amps to the loads.

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

gww1 wrote: »

Have you ever visited here

http://outbackpower.com/forum/index.php?sid=2f1ec936ec7eb584c9f67f32b723e85a

It is not a real active site, but if someone decides to chime in they are usualy smarter then me altough I do answer there in the same sick fassion I do here. Sometimes one of the techs will even answer.

Good luck
gww

Yeah I have been there, kinda a graveyard sometimes

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

Blackcherry04 wrote: »

Yes, but it's in DC amps on the charger, the Mate is in AC amps. @ 48 v it's a 2.xx ratio.

Change the ACin to what ever you want ( 22 amps if you want ), The charger is cutting itself back to stay within the Aac 18 amp limit. 15 amps to the charger and 3 amps to the loads.

Yeah I played with that, but if I increase it above 18, then the generator display goes over 5500kVa (and the inverters start charging at a higher rate as expected) - and THAT is the part that is confusing me. Should I just trust the Honda display and keep it at 5500kVA? But if I do it seems like I am "lacking" what the inverter(s) want to get max charge rate.

gww1 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

J
Are you running loads and charging?
gww

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

gww1 wrote: »

J
Are you running loads and charging?
gww

Yes, no way around that, but they aren't that large. I do understand how the inverter assigns power to the loads first and then to the charger. I just want to maximize the charge rate without blowing up the generator. The dang kVA vs Watts vs Amps thing is messing me up.

gww1 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

J
I am not smart enough to tell you, What I do is normaly run things to destruction and then say "man I shouln't have done that" I am a firm believer in trying it, but it isn't always free.

Good luck
gww

PS that is why it has breaker though.

BB. · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

VA or Volt Amps...

The "fun" of dealing with AC power. Watts is energy and VA is sort of the actual AC usage based on "efficiency" of the AC loads...

Watts = Volts * Amps (VA) * Power Factor

Power factor = Cosine phase angle between Voltage and Current sine waves = sort of a derating based "inefficient use of current"

Power factor - Wikipedia

So, when PF = 1.0 (perfect power factor) VA = Watts

For typical AC loads, PF can range from 0.6 (motors, CFL lamps, some computer power supplies) to 0.95 to 1.0 PF (power factor corrected motors/power factor corrected power supplies, resistance heaters/filament lamps).

More or less, we use Watts and Watt*Hours to size battery banks, solar arrays, and such.

And we use VA to size AC wiring, AC Inverter output/generator output (typically for small inverters/generators, VA=Watt rating), transformers, etc. In some cases, you will see an inverter or generator with VA rating > Watt rating (very common for UPS systems with computers that typically have power PF ratings).

It is sort of confusing, but if you are not designing right to the limits on your system (using 295 "watts" on 300 Watt/VA rated inverter)... You can assume that VA~Watts. If you have PF=0.8, then 295W/0.8PF=369VA rated inverter/generator/transformer minimum rated needed.

The battery will still see a ~295 Watt load even with a "poor" power factor (there are additional losses due to poor PF, but for a first approximation, you can ignore them for system planning).

-Bill

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

BB. wrote: »

VA or Volt Amps...

The "fun" of dealing with AC power. Watts is energy and VA is sort of the actual AC usage based on "efficiency" of the AC loads...

Watts = Volts * Amps (VA) * Power Factor

Power factor = Cosine phase angle between Voltage and Current sine waves = sort of a derating based "inefficient use of current"

Power factor - Wikipedia

So, when PF = 1.0 (perfect power factor) VA = Watts

For typical AC loads, PF can range from 0.6 (motors, CFL lamps, some computer power supplies) to 0.95 to 1.0 PF (power factor corrected motors/power factor corrected power supplies, resistance heaters/filament lamps).

More or less, we use Watts and Watt*Hours to size battery banks, solar arrays, and such.

And we use VA to size AC wiring, AC Inverter output/generator output (typically for small inverters/generators, VA=Watt rating), transformers, etc. In some cases, you will see an inverter or generator with VA rating > Watt rating (very common for UPS systems with computers that typically have power PF ratings).

It is sort of confusing, but if you are not designing right to the limits on your system (using 295 "watts" on 300 Watt/VA rated inverter)... You can assume that VA~Watts. If you have PF=0.8, then 295W/0.8PF=369VA rated inverter/generator/transformer minimum rated needed.

The battery will still see a ~295 Watt load even with a "poor" power factor (there are additional losses due to poor PF, but for a first approximation, you can ignore them for system planning).

-Bill

Thanks for the explanation, I understand that now.

However, do you have any thoughts as to my findings? Would that be what you would expect based on my data? Do you think Honda is REALLY talking about kVA when they list it in the manual vs watts - meaning, I should trust the Honda display vs "doing the math" and using the AMPS/KW numbers from the mate3?

Blackcherry04 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil, this a good place to use a clamp on amp meter, not only to check the amp load, but to also to see how the leg balance is. On my generator input's I have amp meter and volt meter for each leg permanently installed, not expensive for the information you get. While I like the Mate, I'd never trust it.

Added : If you have your generator on plugs, get a male and female plug to make a break out adapter with the wires exposed so you can use a clamp on meter and put it inline for testing. It saves a lot of time and effort.
.

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

Blackcherry04 wrote: »

jcheil, this a good place to use a clamp on amp meter, not only to check the amp load, but to also to see how the leg balance is. On my generator input's I have amp meter and volt meter for each leg permanently installed, not expensive for the information you get. While I like the Mate, I'd never trust it.

Added : If you have your generator on plugs, get a male and female plug to make a break out adapter with the wires exposed so you can use a clamp on meter and put it inline for testing. It saves a lot of time and effort.
.

Good idea on the meters for each leg of the generator. I did that for each of the two strings of my battery bank already and as shown in my post last week it's a good thing I did because it identified a loose connection I had!

For now, I can put the clamp meter around the wires in the panel (I have the generator feeding into a small breaker panel).
I actually have a couple of AC-Amp meters with CT's from my old system. I'll retrofit them to connect to the generator legs.

Thanks for the great ideas everyone!

Cariboocoot · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

VA = Volt Amps = Watts with Power Factor taken into consideration. This is important here because generators are sensitive to power factor as are inverters.

On a 240 Volt circuit there is no difference between current on L1 and current on L2. When it is used in a split-phase configuration there usually is, with the current difference carried on N. Running twin FX inverters is a split-phase application, even if the phases are relatively balanced.

Numbers: 22.9 Amps * 240 Volts = 5496 Volt Amps, pretty close to the 5.5kVA rating. Half of this power would be available on each 120 L-N connection: 22.9 Amps * 120 Volts = 2748 VA.

Outback FX inverters give priority to loads, so the gen input max can be set at any point up to 22.9 Amps. This will be beneficial to the generator and to the system as it allows maximum gen loading and maximum load allowance for the FX's. They must be set the same. Give yourself some room on the current, though; I wouldn't go higher than 21 Amps.

FX charger setting is in Amps AC and the approximate conversion is 10X for 12 Volts, 5X for 24, and 2.5X for 48. This does not include conversion efficiency or inverter tare, but that is largely irrelevant for setting the maximum charge rate as it will not exceed the gen max no matter what.

You've got 740 Amp hours @ 48 Volts, you want 74 Amps split between the two inverters. That's 37 Amps each or 14.8 Amps AC, call it 15. For some reason Outback specifies slave inverter to be set lower, so the initial 15/14 is close. You may want to put it up 1 Amp each inverter (16/15).

Remember these chargers give priority to loads and the charger will be reduced to accommodate them: if the gen max minus the load demand is less than the charging max the latter will be decreased. You have the balancing transformer on the output so it should work smoothly.

Blackcherry04 · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil wrote: »

Good idea on the meters for each leg of the generator. I did that for each of the two strings of my battery bank already and as shown in my post last week it's a good thing I did because it identified a loose connection I had!

For now, I can put the clamp meter around the wires in the panel (I have the generator feeding into a small breaker panel).
I actually have a couple of AC-Amp meters with CT's from my old system. I'll retrofit them to connect to the generator legs.

Thanks for the great ideas everyone!

I was going to make a suggestion to head to SkyCraft Supply over on Fairbanks in Orlando. The DIY dream store.

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

Cariboocoot wrote: »

Outback FX inverters give priority to loads, so the gen input max can be set at any point up to 22.9 Amps. This will be beneficial to the generator and to the system as it allows maximum gen loading and maximum load allowance for the FX's. They must be set the same. Give yourself some room on the current, though; I wouldn't go higher than 21 Amps.

FX charger setting is in Amps AC and the approximate conversion is 10X for 12 Volts, 5X for 24, and 2.5X for 48. This does not include conversion efficiency or inverter tare, but that is largely irrelevant for setting the maximum charge rate as it will not exceed the gen max no matter what.

You've got 740 Amp hours @ 48 Volts, you want 74 Amps split between the two inverters. That's 37 Amps each or 14.8 Amps AC, call it 15. For some reason Outback specifies slave inverter to be set lower, so the initial 15/14 is close. You may want to put it up 1 Amp each inverter (16/15).

Remember these chargers give priority to loads and the charger will be reduced to accommodate them: if the gen max minus the load demand is less than the charging max the latter will be decreased. You have the balancing transformer on the output so it should work smoothly.

Thanks, between you and Bill, I finally understand it completely now.

However (I mentioned this before) if I increase the "GEN Input" above 18AAC, then the generator display goes over 5500kVa. So should I just trust the Honda display and keep it at 5500kVA (i.e. 18AAC in the Mate3)? Or bring it up to 21AAC and set it to 16/15 as you suggested (which will likely put the generator display up in the 6300-6400va range - which i am not sure is a good thing?).

Cariboocoot · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil wrote: »

Thanks, between you and Bill, I finally understand it completely now.

However (I mentioned this before) if I increase the "GEN Input" above 18AAC, then the generator display goes over 5500kVa. So should I just trust the Honda display and keep it at 5500kVA (i.e. 18AAC in the Mate3)? Or bring it up to 21AAC and set it to 16/15 as you suggested (which will likely put the generator display up in the 6300-6400va range - which i am not sure is a good thing?).

The gen will only go above 5.5 kVA if that is how it is loaded.
At 21 Amps and 240 VAC the load should only be about 5 kVA. If it is reading higher than this then the power factor of the loads involved is pushing it up another 10% (possibly more), which is not unusual or even particularly bad (alternately the gen's readout could be wrong).

Adjust the gen max on both inverters to where the generator is "comfortable" when fully loaded. It would not be at its maximum just from the two chargers running (<4 kVA at 15 Amps each, even with PF which is not as bad on the FX's as some would have you believe). Some other concurrent load is pushing it up.

The charging setting is somewhat independent of the gen setting in that it is based on the maximum current you want to go to the batteries. As I said this will go down from that point to accommodate loads. What you are experiencing is the total loading of the gen pushing it to maximum output. Something else is using approximately 1.5 kVA, not the chargers.

Oh and be very aware of how the autotransformer is wired in with this system. As I recall, when it is used to balance the loads on the FX's outputs it needs to be bypassed or lifted from the AC OUTS for generator running. There are many schematics for using the transformer and you have to make sure you use the one that fits with your application (inverters can be stacked serial or parallel and used with the transformer to provide balanced split-phase output either way, but it makes a big difference on using 120 or 240 VAC gen input).

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

Cariboocoot wrote: »

The gen will only go above 5.5 kVA if that is how it is loaded.
At 21 Amps and 240 VAC the load should only be about 5 kVA. If it is reading higher than this then the power factor of the loads involved is pushing it up another 10% (possibly more), which is not unusual or even particularly bad (alternately the gen's readout could be wrong).

That must explain the difference because like I said, at 18AAC setting it is reading 5500vA on the generator. I can crank it higher and the generator doesn't seem to "complain" but it is exceeding 5500.

Cariboocoot wrote: »

Oh and be very aware of how the autotransformer is wired in with this system. As I recall, when it is used to balance the loads on the FX's outputs it needs to be bypassed or lifted from the AC OUTS for generator running. There are many schematics for using the transformer and you have to make sure you use the one that fits with your application (inverters can be stacked serial or parallel and used with the transformer to provide balanced split-phase output either way, but it makes a big difference on using 120 or 240 VAC gen input).

I have them stacked using the "Outback Stacking" method. As shown below:

Attachment not found.Attachment not found.

I never saw any reference about disconnecting the X240 when using the generator. As a matter of fact, I mentioned to Outback that I only had a 120V generator (at the time) and they said it was no problem in that only the master inverter will do the charging, the slave will "go to sleep" (because it's internal transfer switch will be activated) and the 240V would be provided by the transformer while on the 120V generator - however to be careful not to exceed the 20a/240v limit for the X240 or the X240 breaker will trip.

BB. · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

When you measure Volts and Amps with a meter (and/or clamp meter), you are actually measuring VA (volt amps).

To measure Watts (voltage*amps*Cosine phase angle), you need a power meter that can measure both voltage and current at the same time so they can measure the phase angle between the two wave forms.

You can also have loads that pull current wave forms that are not "pure sine wave" (like battery chargers, switching power supplies, CFL/LED lighting, etc.--Or "peaky/spikey" non-sine wave forms), which make for poor power factor too.

As to what the Honda meter measures--The meter is stamped "VA", but the marketing blurb says Watts... I don't know which it monitors. If your readings are within 5% of real numbers (for voltage/current, or within 10% for Wattage and VA), you probably are not going to see much more accurate numbers without using more accurate test gear.

-Bill

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

BB. wrote: »

When you measure Volts and Amps with a meter (and/or clamp meter), you are actually measuring VA (volt amps).

To measure Watts (voltage*amps*Cosine phase angle), you need a power meter that can measure both voltage and current at the same time so they can measure the phase angle between the two wave forms.

Good point, I am gonna head over to eBay and see about finding a digital panel meter that will measure both and display VA also.

BB. wrote: »

You can also have loads that pull current wave forms that are not "pure sine wave" (like battery chargers, switching power supplies, CFL/LED lighting, etc.--Or "peaky/spikey" non-sine wave forms), which make for poor power factor too.

As to what the Honda meter measures--The meter is stamped "VA", but the marketing blurb says Watts... I don't know which it monitors. If your readings are within 5% of real numbers (for voltage/current, or within 10% for Wattage and VA), you probably are not going to see much more accurate numbers without using more accurate test gear.
-Bill

Yeah, tell me about it. That is why I am so confused. It doesn't SEEM like the inverters are pulling 5500 "watts" based on the settings on the Mate vs the Honda Display.

When I get the new meters hooked up I will report back. Thanks everyone for the help.

inetdog · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil wrote: »

Good point, I am gonna head over to eBay and see about finding a digital panel meter that will measure both and display VA also.

Depending on the voltage and current, and if you have a large enough panel, you might want to mount a Kill-A-Watt meter instead.
For someone with good electronics skills they can be adapted with an external current transformer (or pair of CTs) to work with 120/240 and with higher than 15A sources, but I am not the one who suggested that! (You also have to multiply the display readings by an appropriate factor, since they are not programmable.)

PS: And I will NOT be the one to tell you how to do it!

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

inetdog wrote: »

Depending on the voltage and current, and if you have a large enough panel, you might want to mount a Kill-A-Watt meter instead.
For someone with good electronics skills they can be adapted with an external current transformer (or pair of CTs) to work with 120/240 and with higher than 15A sources, but I am not the one who suggested that! (You also have to multiply the display readings by an appropriate factor, since they are not programmable.)

PS: And I will NOT be the one to tell you how to do it!

Not fair! I need SOMEONE to blame it on when it blows up

Actually I just ordered 4 of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/301319672793?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Going to put two on the generator input and two on the inverter output. Heck, for $16 each it's worth a try.

inetdog · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil wrote: »

Actually I just ordered 4 of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/301319672793?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Going to put two on the generator input and two on the inverter output. Heck, for $16 each it's worth a try.

That looks very attractive! Especially with the 100A upper current range. And with the display of Watt, VA, and Cos(Phi) it is definitely a power meter.
But you do realize that you will need to purchase a current transformer for each one as a separate item? That could cost almost as much as the meter itself. And I did not see a spec for what ratio you need for the CT.

BB. · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

One very important warning about Current Transformers... If you connect the load wire through the transformer and pass AC current, the output wires of the CT, if unconnected, can generate very high voltages (hundreds of volts or more) and ruin the CT and/or give you a bad shock.

Always make sure the CT leads are shorted or connected to their intended final destination before powering up the load circuit.

-bill

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

inetdog wrote: »

That looks very attractive! Especially with the 100A upper current range. And with the display of Watt, VA, and Cos(Phi) it is definitely a power meter.
But you do realize that you will need to purchase a current transformer for each one as a separate item? That could cost almost as much as the meter itself. And I did not see a spec for what ratio you need for the CT.

They come with a CT already.

NOTE: Actually I am double-checking with the seller. I have bought CT type meters in the past and they ALWAYS came with the CT.
I see other listings for the same meter (exact) and some show a picture of the CT and some don't. And they are all about the same price.

vtmaps · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil wrote: »

It doesn't SEEM like the inverters are pulling 5500 "watts" based on the settings on the Mate vs the Honda Display.

jcheil wrote: »

like I said, at 18AAC setting it is reading 5500vA on the generator. I can crank it higher and the generator doesn't seem to "complain" but it is exceeding 5500.

Think of a generator as having two parts... 1) the engine 2) the generator head. You have an inverter generator, so you have a third part, the inverter.

When you load up the generator, the engine only sees the watts being consumed by the load... it does NOT know or care about the higher VA number. Your fuel consumption is based on the watts of your load, not the VA of the load. ***Note: actually, there is a slight power cost when VA exceeds watts... the higher currents generate higher I²R losses in the wiring and electrical components of the inverter.

On the other hand, the generator head and the inverter and your wiring do care about the VA. The higher currents of the VA must actually flow through the coils in the generator head and through the inverter.

When you say the generator doesn't seem to complain when the VA exceeds 5500, you are referring to the sound of the engine which doesn't know or care about the excessive VA.

--vtMaps

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil wrote: »

They come with a CT already.

NOTE: Actually I am double-checking with the seller. I have bought CT type meters in the past and they ALWAYS came with the CT.
I see other listings for the same meter (exact) and some show a picture of the CT and some don't. And they are all about the same price.

Update: I couldn't get a straight answer from the seller (Language Barrier - China) So I cancelled and went with these instead which actually SHOW the CT as being included - $1 more: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171467258966?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

vtmaps wrote: »

When you say the generator doesn't seem to complain when the VA exceeds 5500, you are referring to the sound of the engine which doesn't know or care about the excessive VA.
--vtMaps

Yeah it's hard to get used to these inverter generators. I am so used to "hearing" the load on the old-school generators. I could tell by "sound" when they were being close to overloaded.

vtmaps · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

jcheil wrote: »

Yeah it's hard to get used to these inverter generators. I am so used to "hearing" the load on the old-school generators. I could tell by "sound" when they were being close to overloaded.

I can hear the load on inverter generators... the engine does sound different when fully loaded. But the loading on the engine goes with the watts, not the VA. Also, the generators have good mufflers, so whatever you do hear is muted.

--vtMaps

jcheil · October 2014

Re: Clarification on Generator input

vtmaps wrote: »

I can hear the load on inverter generators... the engine does sound different when fully loaded. But the loading on the engine goes with the watts, not the VA. Also, the generators have good mufflers, so whatever you do hear is muted.

--vtMaps

hmm...maybe I never "pushed" the limits of it yet. At best, I saw the RPM go up to 3200 and pretty much stay there. And that was when I was pulling 22AAC from it and the VA meter said something like 8500-6800. I guess it will just take some time to get used to the new sounds.

Clarification on Generator input

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