Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

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As we have almost two years of off-grid living under our belts, we're ready (and have saved up enough) to install an off-grid solar system for our guest house and wood shop.

We don't have many significant loads in our cabin (Part 1, Part 2), and our Internet Radio Repeater system is even smaller, so this represents the largest system we've worked with yet to date.

Load Analysis

Here are the major pieces of equipment that we're needing to power in the wood shop:
  • Planer
  • Drill press
  • Table saw
  • Miter/Cross-cut saw
  • Table router
  • Sawdust collector

The largest loads are the table saw (2 HP at 220V) and the planer (2.5 HP at 220V). Fortunately, they are rarely run at the same time.

While we're looking at doing most of our wood working during sunny days, so we're hoping that we don't have to dip into the battery (or run the genset) too often, but the surge current required to handle motor startup is a significant factor in our system design. Plus, with our weather, one often needs to do repairs during the winter.

The guest house loads are pretty conventional. Based on our cabin usage statistics, we're averaging 2 KWh per day, and when guests are over, 4 KWh per day.

Solar Configuration

We don't have very many good solar locations near the shop, with the best nearby location being around around 300 feet away. We're building a ground-mounted system for the panels, and we'll sadly have to take down a dozen trees to ensure we get good winter sun exposure.

Once the mount is built, we'll be putting up 24 Sharp ND-H235Q2 panels, which we were planning to arrange into two strings, each powering a SMA Sunny Boy 2500HF-US inverter.

For worst case voltage, we took the Voc (37.2v), multiplied it by 12, then by 1.2 for overvoltage. That gives us 535.7 volts, which is well below the maximum rated voltage of 600 volts. So, we're good there.

For max power, we took the rated power Pmax (235w) and multiplied it by 12. That gives us 2820 watts. The max power rating for the 2500hf-us is 2750 watts, so we're a little high there.

However, we have _really_ poor sun conditions, and we've never seen anything close to the rated panel power from our existing panels (we're lucky if we get 60% of the rated power on the best, most sunny day given our location), so this is close enough that we're still good. During very cold weather, we could get a higher theoretical current rating, but that is also the time when we get the weakest sun due to the low angle the sun is in the horizon.

For max amperage, we took the maximum power amperage Imp (7.81a), and with only a single string, that is well below the 15 amp rating.

For minimum voltage, we took the maximum power voltage Vpm (30.1) and multiply that by 12. That gives us 361.2 volts, which is well above the 220 v startup voltage rating of the inverter.

Unfortunately, after talking with SMA about our proposed configuration, they told us that due to "compatibility problems" with their own Sunny Island off-grid inverter, they no longer support using the 2000/2500/3000HF-US inverters for off-grid applications(!).

So, there went that plan.

We're currently re-assessing exactly what SMA inverter we will use instead of the 2500HF-US — we do want to stick with two inverters, so that in the case of an inverter failure, we haven't lost of our solar power, just half.

Inverter Configuration

We're going to run Tek cable from the solar array down to a 10 by 10 foot shipping container that we will install on a concrete foundation near the shop. We're going with an external building for resiliency purposes, and to keep the batteries separate from the guest home. Using a container also allows us to get the system assembled where the electricians live, which is substantially less expensive then bringing the electricians over to the island where we live.

Inside the shipping container, we'll install plywood on two of the three walls, and mount two Sunny Island 6048 inverters in a split-phase configuration. We're also installing a Sunny Smartformer, with a transfer switch so that if one of the two 6048 fails, we can resume operations using the surviving inverter.

DC wiring will run through a raceway to the battery bank located on the opposite wall from the inverters. This is illustrated in the below diagram:

Attachment not found.

From left to right we have:
  • 200 Amp Load Centre
  • Electrical box for transfer switch and power quality monitoring
  • Smartformer
  • Sunny Islands A & B

Everything will be connected via RS-485 and connected to a Sunny WebBox to allow for local and remote monitoring.

Battery Configuration

We'd like to be able to run our woodshop for 2 hours taking the batteries from a 100% SOC to 75% SOC, and we'd like to be able to have four days of load at the guest house taking the batteries to 50% SOC. Given the different discharge levels, these work out to roughly the same numbers of watt-hours, assuming that running a 2 1/2 HP motor consumes around 2 KWh per hour.

Plugging through the numbers, we get a battery size of 32 KWh, or around 666 amp-hours. That's a beast of a battery, but not too unmanageable, and SMA recommends that we consider increasing the battery size to 1000 amp-hours, given our plans to expand to 10 KW of solar next year.

We've been very happy with the Deka Unigy II batteries we have installed in they power system for our cabin, but these are pretty expensive, so we've been exploring other AGM and gel battery options, and we haven't finalized that part of the system.

Remaining Odds and Ends

The remaining bits and pieces include Tek cable back underground from the container to a load panel in the guest house, and a distribution panel in the shop. We could really confuse people by installing a power meter at the service entrance. ^_^

We're very impressed with SMA's products and the pre-sales support they've provided us. Their products are pricey, but in our opinion, it is well worth it.

So, given this description, any thoughts on how this system looks? Are our calculations in order, and look reasonable?

We're looking forward to your advice and wisdom, as usual, and we'll be posting photos as everything starts to get built and installed.

Peace,

David & Laura
House: 2x SMA SI 6048 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 2x SMA SB 3000TL-US w 24x Sharp ND-H235Q2
Cabin: 1x Magnum MS4024 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 1x Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 w 6x Sharp ND-H235Q2; 1x 200 Watt Harris microhydro
Intertie: 1x SMA WB 3800; 1x Lambda GEN-600 DC Supply; 2x PSL pQube

Comments

  • David and Laura
    David and Laura Solar Expert Posts: 139
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    The Sunny WebBox has arrived, along with the Sunny SensorBox.

    We've also got a final quote for the Sunny Island 6048 inverters and the SmartFormer.

    The price is an ouch, but the Canadian distributor we've selected was able to get us a price that was _substantially_ better than all of the quotes we got from the U.S.

    We suspect that one of the downsides of the government subsidies that stipulate "Buy U.S." is that it causes a lot of solar kit to be more expensive in the U.S. when compared to Canada and Europe, as distributors make sure that some of that largess gets diverted their way.
    House: 2x SMA SI 6048 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 2x SMA SB 3000TL-US w 24x Sharp ND-H235Q2
    Cabin: 1x Magnum MS4024 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 1x Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 w 6x Sharp ND-H235Q2; 1x 200 Watt Harris microhydro
    Intertie: 1x SMA WB 3800; 1x Lambda GEN-600 DC Supply; 2x PSL pQube
  • solarvic
    solarvic Solar Expert Posts: 1,071 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    With the large debt burdin our polititions have spent us into has caused the US MONEY to be lower valued than CANADIAN MONEY. The shoe is on the other foot now so you CANADIANS SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET LOWER PRICES then USA BUYERS. ::Dsolarvic:D
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3
    solarvic wrote: »
    With the large debt burdin our polititions have spent us into has caused the US MONEY to be lower valued than CANADIAN MONEY. The shoe is on the other foot now so you CANADIANS SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET LOWER PRICES then USA BUYERS. ::Dsolarvic:D

    Ha ha ha ha! NEVER! :p

    The amount of taxes we pay up here negates any possibility of bargains.
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    We also have a total market size that is 1/10 of yours so the 'we don't have as many customers as they do in the states' argument is used to justify higher prices. Also according to last nights news, the Senate has struck a (toothless) committee (shock and k horror) to look into why some items are nearly 2x the price up here.... they did mention there are still Import Duties on some 1300 commonly used items. I know that a solar (PV) product for one does not!;)
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • solarvic
    solarvic Solar Expert Posts: 1,071 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    A bill I just payed feb 4 was Canadian value $67.80 cost $69.64 usf after our devaluation. So far we don,t have federal sales tax but most states have state and local sales tax. The foundry where I retired from in 2010 did a lot of business with Canadian companys. A lot of the pattern equipment and castings were over-width and overweight loads. :Dsolarvic
  • David and Laura
    David and Laura Solar Expert Posts: 139
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    Just to give some context, the price on the Sunny Island 6048 from the lowest priced Canadian distributor was 20% lower than of the price of the lowest price US distributor. Their shipping was also 1/3 the price, and we won't have to worry about customs/duty. A win all around.


    Back to the installation, one of the problems with the US version of the Sunny Island is that it runs at 120 volts (Europe gets all the nice stuff!). Thus, in order to be compatible with SMA's SunnyBoy and WindyBoy products, you either need to get two of them (wired in split-phase), or use an autotransformer, such as SMA's SmartFormer product.

    Going split phase has many advantages, but one of the disadvantages is that if either of the Sunny Islands fail, you're now offline. That significantly increases your probability of downtime, since the combined reliability is the product of the reliability of each unit.

    We were originally going to have our two Sunny Islands paralleled, and use a larger autotransformer. That way, if either of the SI's failed, we would be able to continue to run, just at half capacity.

    However, a better approach (both in cost and efficiency) is to use a split phase configuration, and have a "failure mode", where one of the two SI's can run the entire system through an autotransformer. Here's the diagram:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=4513&d=1360569693

    Under normal operation, the two SI's directly supply power. If one of the SI's fail, we'll loose a phase, and all of the SunnyBoy's will trip offline.

    By going and selecting the "Sunny Island Selection Switch" to the surviving Sunny Island, then switching the Manual Transfer Switch over to position 3, everything will run through the SmartFormer as if there was only a single Sunny Island installed, and everything will come back online.

    This is more economical, because you don't have to purchase a 20 kVA autotransformer, and more efficient, because you only have transformer loss when running in degraded mode.

    We suspect we'll have to install some protective relaying to trip a breaker if a single phase is lost, since we don't want to loose all system charging, but keep half the loads still running. And while this could all be made automatic, it would be significantly more complex.

    Attachment not found.
    House: 2x SMA SI 6048 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 2x SMA SB 3000TL-US w 24x Sharp ND-H235Q2
    Cabin: 1x Magnum MS4024 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 1x Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 w 6x Sharp ND-H235Q2; 1x 200 Watt Harris microhydro
    Intertie: 1x SMA WB 3800; 1x Lambda GEN-600 DC Supply; 2x PSL pQube
  • stephendv
    stephendv Solar Expert Posts: 1,571 ✭✭
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    My 2cents worth is that a failure of a sunny island is a very rare event, hopefully 1 in 10 years. Seems you're going to spend a lot buying an autotransformer to cover this very rare event. Have you considered extending the sunny islands' guarantee instead (e.g. to 15 or 20 years)? AFAIK, if the inverter fails while under guarantee SMA will send out a replacement while they repair yours. So it could mean being without electricity for 1 or 2 days- or simply running on gen power for this days.
  • David and Laura
    David and Laura Solar Expert Posts: 139
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    We're pretty remote, and it can take up to two weeks to get a replacement unit shipped in (this equipment isn't stocked locally in Canada, and needs to be first shipped to Canada, then shipped to our location in Canada). Worst case, if there are bad winter storms, it could take a month to get a replacement to us!

    We looked at the extended warranty, but it is far more expensive than a SmartFormer and the extra wiring/switches. The warranty also does not cover failures related to lightning, overvoltage, storms, etc. While we'll be designing our system to minimize the probability of damage resulting from scenarios, they still do represent situations where we'd be out of luck if we just relied on a warranty.

    And since the generator is typically wired through the Sunny Islands, when you have a failure, your generator is also no longer usable. We're exploring other options to AC-couple a generator to address this concern, but that still requires us to be able to have 240 volts even in the presence of a Sunny Island failure.
    House: 2x SMA SI 6048 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 2x SMA SB 3000TL-US w 24x Sharp ND-H235Q2
    Cabin: 1x Magnum MS4024 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 1x Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 w 6x Sharp ND-H235Q2; 1x 200 Watt Harris microhydro
    Intertie: 1x SMA WB 3800; 1x Lambda GEN-600 DC Supply; 2x PSL pQube
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    I agree with stephendv that you're probably spending extra money and adding unnecessary complexity.

    Leave yourself some wire to work with. If one SI should fail, take both off-line and do a quick, temporary re-wire to get the other to power up. Inverter failure of quality brands is amazing rare unless somebody really makes a mistake.
  • David and Laura
    David and Laura Solar Expert Posts: 139
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    With paralleled inverters (or the European Sunny Island), I would agree with you. However, with the US version of the Sunny Island, in order for the it to work with SMA SunnyBoys, you either need to have both of them working, or have an autotransformer.

    Wiring everything through a manual transfer switch adds very little cost on top of the cost of the SmartFormer, and allows everything to be wired to code. Plus, when combined with an indicator light for each of the Sunny Island, it is simple enough that the whole family could use it.

    For example, the core instructions would read:

    If the power goes off, go to the power shed. If only one of the two "Inverter Power" lights are illuminated follow the below steps:

    1. Switch the "Source Selection Switch" to the position corresponding to the indicator that is illuminated (INV1 or INV2).
    2. Switch the "Failure Transfer Switch" from position "II" through "0" through "I". Both the "Phase 1" and "Phase 2" indicators should illuminate.
    3. Throw the "Inverter Isolation Breaker" to reconnect power.


    Of course, there would also be diagrams.
    House: 2x SMA SI 6048 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 2x SMA SB 3000TL-US w 24x Sharp ND-H235Q2
    Cabin: 1x Magnum MS4024 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 1x Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 w 6x Sharp ND-H235Q2; 1x 200 Watt Harris microhydro
    Intertie: 1x SMA WB 3800; 1x Lambda GEN-600 DC Supply; 2x PSL pQube
  • David and Laura
    David and Laura Solar Expert Posts: 139
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    Re: Gulf Island Off-Grid System - Part 3

    More progress:

    We now have a refined layout that moves the location of the inverters. This halves the length of the DC cable runs and reduces the length of raceway required. We've also shown where the two MNDC250 DC disconnects will be located:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=4530&d=1360909169

    We've also put together a draft panel layout for the electrical box that will allow for switching from a two inverter configuration to a single inverter configuration, and will also house a pQube for power quality monitoring:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=4531&d=1360909241

    Updating the high-level instructions from our previous post to use the improved naming, we get:

    If the power goes off, go to the power shed. If only one of the two "Inverter A"/"Inverter B" lights are illuminated, follow the below steps:

    1. Switch the "Inverter Selection" Switch to the position corresponding to the indicator that is illuminated ("Inverter A" or "Inverter B"). The "Backup Available" light should illuminate.
    2. Switch the "Source Selection" Switch from position "2" through "0" through "1". Both the "Grid Power" indicators should illuminate.
    3. Throw the "Inverter Isolation Breaker" to reconnect power.



    Attachment not found. Attachment not found.
    House: 2x SMA SI 6048 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 2x SMA SB 3000TL-US w 24x Sharp ND-H235Q2
    Cabin: 1x Magnum MS4024 w 24x 2V DEKA Unigy II; 1x Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 w 6x Sharp ND-H235Q2; 1x 200 Watt Harris microhydro
    Intertie: 1x SMA WB 3800; 1x Lambda GEN-600 DC Supply; 2x PSL pQube