Re: how to equalize my solar batteries
Welcome to the forum.
Let's go for the basic numbers. You can adjust from there when you see the results.
The first number is the Absorb set point. On a 24 Volt system using Flooded Lead Acid batteries this is usually 28.8. Some battery manufacturers recommend more, others less. Make sure you have the Remote Temperature Sensor, as there can be quite a bit of difference between hot and cold batteries.
On Outback systems the Absorb time is automatically determined by the Bulk time: when Bulk charging begins the clock starts running. Whatever time is on it when Absorb Voltage set-point is reached is how long the Absorb cycle will run for. As a rule you do not need to be concerned about Absorb end Amps except in certain cases.
Float Voltage on a 24 Volt system is usually 27.6. Again +/- depending on what you find works best. Another parameter to set is the Low Voltage Disconnect, which ought to be system nominal (24 Volts). You can go lower than that, but it will eat into battery life.
Equalization is usually done at 31 Volts. You must go through a full charge cycle before running an EQ cycle. If you need to you can run the gen and Bulk the batteries up faster than the PV alone will do, then allow the PV to finish the Absorb cycle and do the Equalization. I'm not familiar with that particular battery, but if they don't have removable caps and cells you can take a Specific Gravity reading from (use a hydrometer) do not equalize them. For the most part, this is not a process for sealed batteries. You should run the EQ for one hour and see if there is any improvement in cell SG. If there is and they are still unequal, do it again. If you stop seeing improvement, stop equalizing. Too much will be bad for the batteries.
1220 Watts of PV, OB MX60, 232 Amp hrs, OB 3524, Honda eu2000.
Ohm's Law: Amps = Volts / Ohms
Power Formula: Watts = Volts * Amps