Power board up and running

santaigo
santaigo Registered Users Posts: 22 ✭✭
Powerboard.jpg
OK, I've finally got the my power board for an off-grid PV system up and running, testing everything. In the photo, the two, 195 watt 12v PV panels are not connected. The 900 sq.ft. cabin is in Baja Mexico and is used for a week or two at a time, 3 or 4 times each year.g
Here are my costs to date:

Two SUN-SV-T-195 panels @ $ 347.10 each ($1.78/watt) $694.20
Xantrex 1500watt inverter (model 1512) $648.00
Xantex C60 charge controller $149.94
Shipping for above 3 items from Sun Electric $144.41

60' of #4 wire from Home Depot $35.00
30' 2/0 battery cable from swap meet $30.00
Lugs, shrink wrap from Northern Arizona $26.00

Inline maxi fuses, shunt etc from Northern Arizona $45.00
Battery cutoff switch from Harbor Frieght $10.75
Ground bus $5.00
300amp fuse and holder from Solarseller.com $61.71

Two 6 volt golf cart from Sam's $173.60
TriMetric meter, lugs from Northern Arizona $158.23
Hydrolic crimping tool from Harbor Frieght $53.17

Square D QO load center with breakers from Craig's List $40.00
3 new 15 amp breakers $15.00
250' 14/2 romex from Home Depot $55.00
Pull chain light fixtures, misc $35.00
stapels, tape, wire nuts, etc (most from inventory) $25.00
Used boxes/switches/plugs from Habitat for Humanity Restore $20.00
Used Jelly jar light fixtures from HFH Restore $22.00
Ufer ground and wire (estimate as of 5/25) $35.00

Totals $2,482.01

I'm posting this stuff for two reasons:
1. comments and suggestions.
2. Others contemplating doing this have some idea of the costs involved.

One thing I would do differently, as a number of you and others from solar boards suggested, is to buy a complete 12v fused disconnect box similar to what MidNight solar makes. These are available for $200 or so and I have about $130 into all these parts. I'm glad I did it as it forced me to research and learn each individual part but really, not worth it.
With two panels, this wiring will not fuse each one but for now, I will live with that.
I am certainly not married to the placement of items on the board, it just kinda worked out the way it did as I planned out the larger cabling runs. It goes without saying that when I re-install the board in Baja, the cabling will be a bit more organized; but I will never win the 'Prettiest Power Board' contest.
The relationship to to the batteries is about right, but there will be a plywood bench top at the level of the bottom of the plywood board. Batteries, by the way, are Sam's 6v golf carts, 220amp hours. At $79, I consider them to be disposable so after a year or so, I'll have a better idea of my usage and any rookie errors won't wipe out expensive batteries.
Fire away.

Comments

  • n3qik
    n3qik Solar Expert Posts: 741 ✭✭
    Re: Power board up and running

    I would run the wires in conduit when you move the board to the final resting place.
  • RCinFLA
    RCinFLA Solar Expert Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭✭
    Re: Power board up and running

    Sólo una madre podría amar.

    4" between exposed battery pos fuse connector block and neg terminal on current shunt not good. At least put a plastic cover over positive fuse terminal block.
  • rplarry
    rplarry Solar Expert Posts: 203 ✭✭
    Re: Power board up and running

    It will be interesting to compare responses between here and the other board.
    Larry
  • santaigo
    santaigo Registered Users Posts: 22 ✭✭
    Re: Power board up and running
    RCinFLA wrote: »
    Sólo una madre podría amar.

    4" between exposed battery pos fuse connector block and neg terminal on current shunt not good. At least put a plastic cover over positive fuse terminal block.
    Thanks for that. The fuse holder does have a lexan cover. On my final install, I will move the inverter to the right about 6", bringing the shunt and the negative leads along with it.

    Does anyone have a problem with the Harbor Fright disconnect switch? It's rated for 500 amps continuous/1000 surge which should be way over what it will ever carry. Less than $10.

    Also, another suggestion I have received is to shorten the length of #4 wire running from the positive output terminal of the charge controller to the battery bank by connecting it to the positive lead of the battery bank at the disconnect switch. This OK?
    "Only a mother could Love" - :blush:
  • Dapdan
    Dapdan Solar Expert Posts: 330 ✭✭
    Re: Power board up and running

    San,

    I would agree with shortening the pos output from the controller to the battery onto the fuse. The same could be done for the ned feed from the controller to the battery. Those C60 have a common negative so you effectivily run one cable to the right hand side of shunt or run the one you already have to the load side of the shunt.

    Cheers...
    Damani