Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 35

Thread: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

  1. #1

    Default Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    Hello fellas, I have 3 Agm batteries wired parallell to an inverter on my camper and need to install a Bogart meter.

    I have a 500a shunt mounted and if I understand this correctly......

    1) The positive cable never touches the shunt itself, but I put a 2 amp fuse on the hotline and run it to B1+

    2) The G1 and G2 wires go on the Kelvin connections (inverter side)

    3)The SIG wire goes on Kelvin connection (battery side)

    4)Run the negative wire for the inverter to the shunt.

    So basically the charge comes from the inverter, then through the shunt to the negative side of the battery?

    Any help would be appreciated.
    Last edited by Will2020; April 12th, 2011 at 19:07 PDT.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SF Bay Area (California)
    Posts
    21,264

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    Not an expert, buy my 2 cents worth:

    Quote Originally Posted by Will2020 View Post
    1) The positive cable never touches the shunt itself, but I put a 2 amp fuse on the hotline and run it to B1+
    Sounds good. Measures +12 volts of battery plus provides power to the Battery Monitor

    2) The G1 and G2 wires go on the Kelvin connections on the outgoing negative side of the shunt.
    If the AH meter reads "backwards", you may have G1/G2 reversed.

    3)The SIG wire goes on Kelvin connection on incoming negative side.
    This wire provides the return line for BM DC power, and measures the other side of your battery voltage. Sounds good.

    What size wire needs to go from negative to the shunt? I'm running 2 gauge for my batteries.
    This lead will need to carry 100% of your maximum load current. If the positive lead from the battery is 2 awg, then 2 awg from the battery to the shunt, and from the shunt to ground bus/common/frame ground is correct.

    Gauge of cable both defines the maximum current it can carry, and also voltage drop... If you have a long wire run and heavy current, you may need a heavier gauge cable to so that you do not loose too much voltage on the wire run (assuming 11.5 volts minimum battery voltage and 10.5 inverter cutoff, you have ~1.0 volt headroom for fuses, shunt, wiring drop).

    I have to run a wire from the negative to the shunt, then run a wire out of the shunt going back to the negative terminal. Is it supposed to operate in a loop like this?
    Not quite sure I understand your question... Imagine you have a cable going from battery (-) to your frame ground/ground bus connection.

    Just cut that ground wire and insert the shunt in the middle. You want all battery current going through the shunt so it can measure the same current that the batteries "see":

    Code:
    [+load bus]=====[+battery-]===[shunt]===[-load bus/frame ground]
    Make +                                   make - connections here
    connections                                      
    here
    This battery has the same wires that go to my inverter. I do not need to directly hook up the meter to the Iota do I?[/QUOTE]

    The Iota and Inverter connections should be made at the +/- load bus connection points. That way, all current to/from the battery will be monitored in included in capacity calculations.

    If you were to put a -Load between Battery- and Shunt, those loads would be "invisible" to the Battery Monitor.

    Note, every + wire that leaves the +bus should be protected by a fuse/breaker rated for that size wire... i.e., 15 amp branch for 14 AWG wire, etc...

    Many times, you will use a heavier wire than needed to reduce voltage drop... For example you may use a 10 AWG wire on a 15 amp branch circuit. You may still choose to use a 15 amp fuse/breaker even though a 10 AWG wire is good for 30 amps or more.

    -Bill
    20x BP 4175B panels (replacement) + Xantrex GT 3.3 inverter for 3kW Grid Tied system + Honda eu2000i Inverter/Generator for emergency backup.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Quetico, Ontario
    Posts
    5,025

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    It is really pretty simple:

    http://www.bogartengineering.com/sit...ons4-20-10.pdf

    Shunt goes on the negative side, fused power from the positive side (anywhere) the G1-G2 go to the shunt connections. If memory serves, if you connect these two backwards the meter will read backwards. A word of caution, if the connections are funky on the shunt it will read erratically. Also, the lugs on the back of the meter need to be tight and perhaps tightened once in a while.

    Tony
    Please note, being a moderator does not add any weight to my opinions 300 watts Siemens/BP panels,plus a Sun 90,, making ~400. ~30 amps into Rogue MPT-3024, 450 ah of Trojan T-105, Morningstar ts300 inverter, a Tri-Metric meter.a collection of antique generators, plus 2 Honda eu-1000i's (also a BS2512 IX controller) and assorted other stuff!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    I have 4 gauge wire coming from the inverter, then 8 gauge wire going from the fuse panel to the battery.

    I think I'm supposed to run the ground line coming from the fuse panel (charging system) directly to the shunt, and then run a ground cable from the shunt to the battery? That is the best that I can tell from the directions and that diagram.

    That is 8 gauge wire coming from the charging system and then exiting a 2 gauge wire on the other side of the shunt.

    Will this give me optimal charge and battery readings?

    You don't need 2 gauge coming from the inverter do you?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    Ok I got it. All current from the negative battery system flows through the shunt.

    Heres the situation.

    I have 4 gauge going from the Iota inverter to the fuse panel. I can not fit anything larger than 4 gauge into the Iota. Is this the proper size?

    Then from the fuse panel, I have 8 gauge going to my shunt.

    I have 3 batts wired parallel with 2 gauge.

    Do I need to upgrade the 8 gauge to at least 4 gauge?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Quetico, Ontario
    Posts
    5,025

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    The shunt essentially "breaks" the negative wire. Battery wire, shunt, wiring to the inverter, charge controller etc.

    The size of the wire, (any wire) needs to be able to carry the expected current. Remember, an inverter suppling 120vac loads at any given amperage, that same load at the battery at 12 vdc will be 10 times greater. A 300 watt load at 120 vac will draw 2.5 amps, but will draw 25 amps from the battery. (Plus inverter loses!)

    Additionally, the wire size needs to carry the load, but you have to consider line loss. Lower voltage means more line loss per foot. When in doubt, use the biggest wire you can.


    #8 wire will carry ~ 40 amps,, #2 will carry ~ 90 amps. 40 amps @ 12 vdc is ~360 watts.

    #4 will carry 70 amps or ~ 840 watts.

    So it all depends on what you are planning on powering with your inverter. Also consider how much charge current you are likely to have.

    Tony
    Please note, being a moderator does not add any weight to my opinions 300 watts Siemens/BP panels,plus a Sun 90,, making ~400. ~30 amps into Rogue MPT-3024, 450 ah of Trojan T-105, Morningstar ts300 inverter, a Tri-Metric meter.a collection of antique generators, plus 2 Honda eu-1000i's (also a BS2512 IX controller) and assorted other stuff!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    I have an Iota 30 amp converter charger, to be used only for charging the batteries with a 1kw generator.

    Will this be sufficient to charge 3?

    Is there a formula for this type of charge?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    What size are your batteries? Or did I miss that?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Quetico, Ontario
    Posts
    5,025

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    The formula for flooded lead acid batteries is between 5 and 13% of amp hour capacity. It is a bit different for AGMs. I can't cut and palsy the link to the batterie faqs nape, but I'm sure you can find them on this forum. If not I will post them later.

    Tony
    Please note, being a moderator does not add any weight to my opinions 300 watts Siemens/BP panels,plus a Sun 90,, making ~400. ~30 amps into Rogue MPT-3024, 450 ah of Trojan T-105, Morningstar ts300 inverter, a Tri-Metric meter.a collection of antique generators, plus 2 Honda eu-1000i's (also a BS2512 IX controller) and assorted other stuff!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SF Bay Area (California)
    Posts
    21,264

    Default Re: Tri-Metric Tm-2025-Rv install

    Deep Cycle Battery FAQ
    www.batteryfaq.org

    For example, a 100 AH battery should be charged, roughly between 5 and 13 Amp*Hours.... You can go to 20-30% or so--but usually only with an AC charger--30% battery rating would be relatively expensive with solar panels.

    -Bill
    Last edited by BB.; April 13th, 2011 at 9:13 PDT.
    20x BP 4175B panels (replacement) + Xantrex GT 3.3 inverter for 3kW Grid Tied system + Honda eu2000i Inverter/Generator for emergency backup.

Similar Threads

  1. Tri-metric erratic readings?
    By icarus in forum Off Grid Solar & Battery Systems
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: October 15th, 2010, 17:43 PDT
  2. looking to get a Trimetric TM-2025 meter soon?
    By lamplight in forum Off Grid Solar & Battery Systems
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: May 20th, 2010, 17:40 PDT
  3. Tri-Metric 2020 and Temp Compensation
    By Kamala in forum Off Grid Solar & Battery Systems
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: August 23rd, 2009, 18:44 PDT
  4. Tri-Metric battery monitor - I think mine's toast
    By LBergman in forum Advanced Solar Electric Technical Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: November 2nd, 2008, 17:19 PST
  5. Tri-metric
    By firefly in forum Solar Beginners Corner
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: May 10th, 2008, 9:24 PDT

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •