small generator questions

Re: small generator questions

intresting about the fuel pump and its advantages.

Mangas wrote: »

Before I built my ranch house and Off Grid System, For five years, I ran the old small ranch house exclusively on eu1000s' and then eu2000s'. I went through several of them.

I religously changed the oil, washed/oiled the foam air cleaner, replaced the spark plug every 100 hours and cleaned out the arrestor. I ran the little gennys 5+ hours a day, and replaced them every year and half or so if they started to burn oil. I think that translates into about 2,000 to 2,500 hours. We tried to rebuild one but it didn't work.

When they did get some age on them, they would shut down periodically when the oil got low. Dumped some more in and let er buck. Usually, when mine started burning oil it was time for a new one.

They are cheap to maintain, highly dependable, quiet, use hardly any fuel and run with a two stage power output depending on the load. I highly recommend them to off gridders trying to get a foothold. A very cheap source of reliable power.

If you use them exclusively keep a box of plugs on hand, extra foam air cleaner and a few mainifold gaskets.

let me guess.. Castrol GTX is part of that religion? Im just asking really but from my experience that stuff is NASTY!

I wonder if the Honda Generators use nikosil lined cylinder walls like in the motorbikes? doesnt sound like it from your experiences.



I have a few lifelong customers who insist on Castrol GTX and Ive seen what the insides of these engines look like after +50k of normal use and regular change intervals.

what Ive seen is way higher than normal sludge/crust build up and it also tends to dye everything an almost orange color. I dont know this as a fact but I belive that stuff is recycled and made from reclaimed used engine oil.


about synthetics, specifically Mobil-1, I own a 1985 GMC truck I bought from the original owner who is also a friend Ive know since before he bought it.

he started using Mobil-1 full synthetic at the first oil change and continued for the next 4 years. I bought it in 1990 and hadnt used synthetics before but since thats what it allways had I continued to use it.

now that the truck is aproaching half of a million miles with the original engine I am a firm beliver in the stuff (Mobil-1)

I have also learned it it not good to start using it in older cars (or other synthetic oils) that have real rubber seals instead of the modern neoprene seals. it tend to harden these older rubber seals quickly. Ive notice previously leak free engine start to leak oil shortly after switching to Mobil-1 synthetic.


I gonna re-read this thread.. lots of good info and I want to make sure I havnt missed anything.

thanks

Re: small generator questions

good to know. I also noticed in the 2000iu maintenance schedule that valve lashes should be checked every 200 hours. it gives the specs for the lash settings but only refers to official service centers for checking and adjustment.

for those who cant or dont want to DIY its still very important.

out of spec lashes can definately lead to premature wear and failures ussually from excessive heat.

worth mentioning.

Re: small generator questions

I now have a brand new EU2000i

I stopped counting how many Hondas Ive owned over the years but this is the first one that doesnt self propel ;-)

Ive never had a significant engine failure on a Honda either Icarus and I have countless hours/miles on them. but then they allways have had plenty of normal and prevenative maintenance too.

I once had a secondary rocker arm shaft back out of and RFVC OHC cylinder head when I was miles away from anywhere on a trail in the mountains and my tool kit didnt include the correct allen key to re-tighten it. one of my more difficult rides home since I had to hold the shaft in with my (gloved) left hand while navigating some serious hillclimb/decents!

the 2000i is indeed overhead cam. I'll keep a check on the valve lash at every 5th oil change. from experince with these types of engines they do tend to tighten up slightly overtime (normal wear)

my break-in proceedure for this one was to run it with whatever oil the dealer had used innitially for 10min with no load (first heat cycle) and then drail the oil and refiled with the Honda recomended oil (SJ API Rating, kinda hard to find since generally the SJ rating is for diesel engines)

second run was for an hour or so with out eco switch engaged and with a load while loading and unloading it with a substantial load (1500w heatgun) so as to get the engine. this helps pressurize the cylidner and seat the piston rings.

after this I drained and refilled the oil again. I will drain it again right after next use and refill /switch to Rotella synthetic.

I never follow recomended break-in proceedures, I have an extensive background in engine R&D and experince tells me to remove initial break in oil (contaminated) ASAP! and also to not hod anything back durring break-in. I allways break-in new engines the way they will be used.

this may sound like crazy advice but I can assure from experience developing both the Arrora, NorthStar and many other egines for GM. in the development stages when we ran them on the Dynos the first thing we allways do, prime the oil pressure with an external pump.

then start the engine and ran it at ~2500-3500 rev until oil and water temps stabilized then make a couple of pulls to make sure nothing is loose or obviously wrong then went right into full-on race simulations (Full revs) in less than 10 minutes from initial start-up.


break-in is critical! and never use synthetic oil for break in either BTW

here's more on the subject for those intrested:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I cant offer much in way of solar related experience and have gained lots of wisdom here so this long winded post I try to return favor for all the great advice and help many here have provided me. Thanks