Simple explanation AH vs. V

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adam1984
adam1984 Solar Expert Posts: 72 ✭✭✭✭
I fully understand running a 10amp appliance for 10 hours means i would need a 100Ah battery bank before it was completely discharged. So if I have a 12V bank with 100Ah, and a 24V bank with 100Ah, is there zero difference? Meaning my bank is drained after the same 10amp appliance runs for ten hours. So why do I care if its 24V or 12V?
-Confused, thanks

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  • RandomJoe
    RandomJoe Solar Expert Posts: 472 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    Amp-hours is only a portion of the story. You also need to factor in the voltage, so:

    12V x 100AH = 1200 watt-hours of available power.
    24V x 100AH = 2400 watt-hours of available power.

    In other words, the 24V bank can power the same load for twice as long as the 12V bank.

    If you had an appliance that could run on 12V or 24V, you would find that the current draw when running on 24V would be half that when running at 12V. (Or, 10A at 12V would only draw 5A at 24V.) But most appliances wouldn't actually be happy at either voltage, if designed for one running it on the other could damage it.
  • Kamala
    Kamala Solar Expert Posts: 452 ✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    You could also look at it this way:

    Let's say that your battery bank consists of two 50AH 12V batteries. Connected in parallel they will deliver 100AH @ 12V or 1200WH. In series they will deliver 50AH @ 24V or the same 1200WH.

    Your question mentioned two dissimilar battery banks. 100AH @ 12V is 1200WH. 100AH @ 24V is 2400WH, a bigger bank.
  • adam1984
    adam1984 Solar Expert Posts: 72 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    That makes total sense joe. Other question... when you say appliances like one or the other, do you mean DC appliances? With an inverter isn't it converting everything to 120V anyway, so the appliances really wouldnt matter what the voltage is between the 24 and 48V bank?
  • Kamala
    Kamala Solar Expert Posts: 452 ✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    adam1984,

    If you are using an inverter, the calculations are simplified! But you must know the magnitude of your load. In WATTS.

    In your original post you mentioned drawing 10A from the battery. We need to know the voltage of this bank. It seems that you wonder if the same AH that are "drained" from a 12V bank are equal to those drained from a 24V bank. The answer is "yes." But it would take longer....

    The problem is that AH is not a very good measure of available power. If we assume that all batteries are 12V, it might be a usable measure. Unfortunately, that is not the case. Or, if we could be sure that everyone knew how series/parallel connections affected volts, amps and time, it could be marginally suitable. Also, not the case.

    Try to convert everything into watts. The equations are simple and pervade all posts on this forum. Represented here.

    V = volts (sometimes E,or EMF, for ElectroMotive Force (archaic).)
    I = amps (or amperes, sometimes incorrectly given as A)
    R = resistance (R is for DC circuits. In certain AC circuits this will be given as Z, or impedance. Calculations of such involve phase angles and, God forbid, imaginary numbers.) A lot of people on this forum understand this stuff better than I do. But don't worry about it, it's a need to know kind of thing. No disrespect, but I don't think you need to know, yet.

    The relationships amongst all the electron behaviors are these:

    OHMS Law for Direct Current (DC):

    I=V/R
    V=I*R
    R=V/I


    Now for POWER calcs: (P is in WATTS)

    P=V*I
    P=I^2*R
    P=V^2/R


    Now, adam, if your loads are supplied by a 120VAC inverter @ 10A (AC) that translates to 100A from a 12V battery and 50A from a 24V battery.

    Ok.... I've gone on too long and wife calls...
  • tallgirl
    tallgirl Solar Expert Posts: 413 ✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    And just to further confuse the OP, we should talk about Design Depth of Discharge.

    Because I have a client I have to go beat over the head about it later today.

    Grrrrrrrrr.

    GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.
  • bryanl
    bryanl Solar Expert Posts: 175 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    I agree, when talking power always convert everything to watts. Multiply amps times battery voltage to get watts.

    Energy is measured in watt-hours. Amp hours times battery voltage will get you watt-hours.

    Keeping consistent, complete, and appropriate units will greatly simplify your engineering and comparison and evaluation functions.

    Some trivia to keep in mind:

    Lead acid batteries provide about 10-15 usable watt hours per pound (50% SoC reference).

    Power draw impacts available battery energy. A change of 2 times in power draw is about a 15% change in capacity. Higher draws reduce available energy. See Peukert.

    A typical 60# lead acid battery will provide about a kilowatt hour of usable energy when drawn at its 20 hour rated 60 watt rate.

    Everything battery has a 10% precision or worse. Use profile, cycle to cycle variance, temperature, age and other factors can all produce variations of 10% or more. The accuracy in your estimates and calculations and measurements need proper qualification of this precision limit to make good decisions.
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,003 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    Just some touchy feely things to hit on here but covered more in depth else were;

    Batteries in the US typically have an AmpHour rating based on a 20 hour discharge, in your example discharging a 100 amp hour battery with a 10 amp load will fall short of 10 hours...

    If you are converting everything to Watthours, remember that anything load on the AC side; with a thermostat or variable speed motor or volume or light control is rated for maximum continuous watts drawn. Your actual watthours used will vary and can best be checked with load over time meter like a kil-a-watt meter.

    Higher voltages on the DC side work out more effiecently as wire size is based on amperage so more wattage can be delivered over the same wire at higher voltage but the same amperage.

    Look around and you'll find good threads on Depth of discharge (DOD)

    If you learn these terms, maybe some tall girl won't come growling at you...
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • adam1984
    adam1984 Solar Expert Posts: 72 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    Think I got it:
    1) The bank is 12V and 100AH. Does this mean I have 1200wh available? Also, does this mean at 50% discharge i have 600wh available?

    2) So we have 1200wh available. I have a fridge that draws 10A off the 120V inverter. What other information do I need to find out how long the fridge will run until the bank is 50% discharged?

    3) What does the 20 hr. discharge rate tell me? When you buy a battery and it says 100AH, is that the 20 hr. discharge rate? Meaning it is delivering 5amps per hour? And if so does that mean that drawing 20Amps will last 5 hours, or is it not linear?

    THANK YOU FOR YOUR PATIENCE. People have been getting upset with me telling me to look it up online. I apologize but I do try to do the best research i can before asking, but I was under the assumption thats what forums are for, to ask questions you can't find the answer to.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V
    adam1984 wrote: »
    Think I got it:
    1) The bank is 12V and 100AH. Does this mean I have 1200wh available? Also, does this mean at 50% discharge i have 600wh available?

    Yep.
    2) So we have 1200wh available. I have a fridge that draws 10A off the 120V inverter. What other information do I need to find out how long the fridge will run until the bank is 50% discharged?
    Where was that 10 amps measured?
    • 10a * 12 volts = 120 watts
    • 10a * 120 volts * PF? = up to 1,200 watts
    If that is 10 amps at 12 volts DC... Then, at first look 100 AH battery (second look is next answer):
    • 100 AH / 10 A = 10 hours to dead (not good thing to do to your battery)
    3) What does the 20 hr. discharge rate tell me? When you buy a battery and it says 100AH, is that the 20 hr. discharge rate? Meaning it is delivering 5amps per hour? And if so does that mean that drawing 20Amps will last 5 hours, or is it not linear?
    Yes to first question (5 amps for 20 hours = 100 AH to dead).

    Not really to the second question... Basically, the faster you draw current out of a battery, the less efficient it is at doing it. The "apparent" amp*hour capacity goes down as the current draw goes up.

    I like to use the 20 hour rate as it is realistic for our uses... Say 3 days of no sun and you use the system 8 hours per night... 3 days * 8 hours = 24 hour discharge rate... Of course, we recommend to discharge only to 50% -- so the "true discharge rate" would be 48 hour discharge rate... But because loads are cycled (sometimes more power is taken, some times less), and the charging time is usually limited (sun light, generator time)--we end up, many times, charging at a higher than C/20 rate (which is also less efficient)... So--to average things out--C/20 rate is a useful average.

    C/10 is about the rough maximum efficient charge/discharge rate (13% max charge rate is C/7.8 -- close enough for solar work). When you get to C/10 (20%) or higher rates--then you can start heating the battery--wasted energy and possible long term damage if not controlled.

    So--the C/XX is not linear, and changes depending on the design of the battery (high current or low current design, etc.). For more information, look up Peukert Effect.

    From the NAWS Battery FAQ--you can see for various batteries:
    [FONT=Fixedsys]
    Battery Type      100 hour rate      20 hour rate      8
    ==========================================================
    Trojan T-105        250 AH           225 AH          n/a
    US Battery 2200     n/a              225 AH        181 AH
    Concorde PVX-6220   255 AH           221 AH        183 AH
    Surrette S-460 (L-16) 429 AH         344 AH        282 AH
    Trojan L-16         400 AH           360 AH          n/a
    Surrette CS-25-P    974 AH           779 AH        639 AH[/FONT]
    
    Because we recommend that people charge at a minimum of 5% -- that is C/20 -- So, C/20 just comes up a lot and is a good conservative estimate of useful battery energy...

    Now--to make your head spin... Many of the loads now-a-days are driven by a DC to AC inverter... So, while the inverter may have started with the battery near 13 volts, the voltage eventually goes down to 10.5 volts (near dead battery + wiring losses)--You end up with not a constant Amp draw--But a constant power draw. As the battery voltage drops, the current draw actually increases. You now are starting to see UPS batteries rated in Constant Power draw in addition to the standard constant current draw.
    • 150 watt load * 1/13 volts * 1/0,85 inv eff = 13.6 amps
    • 150 watt load * 1/10.5 volts * 1/0,85 inv eff = 16.8 amps
    So--another detail that pulls more current than would have been assumed... And leads to another derating factor of an off-grid system (if you want to get into the details).
    THANK YOU FOR YOUR PATIENCE. People have been getting upset with me telling me to look it up online. I apologize but I do try to do the best research i can before asking, but I was under the assumption that's what forums are for, to ask questions you can't find the answer to.
    I hope that is not happening to you here--We will never learn the answers until we first ask the questions. And it is hard to ask questions when you don't even know what questions to ask.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Photowhit
    Photowhit Solar Expert Posts: 6,003 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V
    adam1984 wrote: »
    2) So we have 1200wh available. I have a fridge that draws 10A off the 120V inverter. What other information do I need to find out how long the fridge will run until the bank is 50% discharged?

    I'm not sure where your getting this info, as Amp x Volts = Watts it appears scary as a 1200watt AC fridge, this would be quite a big load. This isn't very likely to me, perhaps you have a portable car DC fridge with a wall adapter? I can see that as maybe a 10 amp load (at 12 volts = 120 watts)

    Well back to your question, What you need to know is the amount of time the fridge actually runs (if it is therostaticly controlled) this would be the "Duty Cycle". this varies due to many conditions, how often the door is opened, the outside temp, how much is inside, when things were added, etc.

    The easiest way to find out the actual draw (the amount of energy use would be the draw, draws can be for fixed for something like a light 13 watts(assumed per hour) or over time for something like a fridge 400watt hours a day since it cycles on and off knowing it draws 120 watts doesn't help a bunch)

    It is easies to check the actual usage with a meter that measure over time like a kil-a-watt meter;

    http://store.solar-electric.com/kiacpomome.html

    If you have a portable fridge that is plugged into a wall adapter, typically these are thermo electric most often with out a thermostat and the draw is continuous and might well us more electric than you standard home fridge.
    Home system 4000 watt (Evergreen) array standing, with 2 Midnite Classic Lites,  Midnite E-panel, Magnum MS4024, Prosine 1800(now backup) and Exeltech 1100(former backup...lol), 660 ah 24v Forklift battery(now 10 years old). Off grid for 20 years (if I include 8 months on a bicycle).
    - Assorted other systems, pieces and to many panels in the closet to not do more projects.
  • adam1984
    adam1984 Solar Expert Posts: 72 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    Can you explain in a little more detail the C/20 charge rate? So lets say I have the trojan t-105 with the 20hr capacity of 225AH.
    1) The charge rate is 225/20, or 11.25A per hour? Is that correct?

    2) And a rate of C/13= 225/13=17.3 Amps per hour? So is this a good rule for charging only or a good rate for discharging as well?

    3) Does this mean charging a 12v 225AH bank at a C/20 rate which is 11.25Amps per hour mean it would take 20 hours from empty with an 11.25Amp charger to have 100% SOC (assuming they made one)?

    4) Are you much more confused than you were two minutes ago before you read this?

    Thank you guys again
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    1 that is correct.

    2 correct also. it can apply to discharge rates as well. it does not mean it is good for the battery as it is only a way of knowing over what timeperiod a battery charges or discharges.

    3 theoretically yes. in real life the last 10-20% does take longer to achieve.

    4 think of c as meaning charge rate and discharge rate where it applies. now writing cr/dr or c/d could confuse things and most usually only concern themselves with the charge rate and they simplified it with just a c.
    now i'm probably confusing you, but it's the charge be it charging or discharging specified over the number of hours.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V
    adam1984 wrote: »
    Can you explain in a little more detail the C/20 charge rate? So lets say I have the trojan t-105 with the 20hr capacity of 225AH.
    1) The charge rate is 225/20, or 11.25A per hour? Is that correct?
    Note that C/20:
    • C/20 = C * 1/20 = C * 0.05 = C * 5% -- our "minimum recommended charging rate"
    2) And a rate of C/13= 225/13=17.3 Amps per hour? So is this a good rule for charging only or a good rate for discharging as well?
    Note that the "13" we use around here is 13% for maximum generic flooded cell battery charging rate:
    • C * 0.13 = 225 AH * 0.13 = 29.25 Amps maximum generic charging rate
    A "C/13" rate would be:
    • C * 1/13 = C * 0.077 = C * 7.7% rate of charge--just a "middle of the road charging rate
    A C*0.13 rate is basically:
    • C*0.13 = C * 1/7.7 ~ C * 1/8 = C/8 which is a very high rate used for forklifts (recharge in 8 hour). At this rate and above--they may have cooling fans in the battery pack.
    A Concord AGM could actually charge at:
    • C/0.25 = C*4 = C4 rate (yes, 15 minutes to recharge battery bank
    Of course, you will probably cook your cabling and charger trying for this rate...
    3) Does this mean charging a 12v 225AH bank at a C/20 rate which is 11.25Amps per hour mean it would take 20 hours from empty with an 11.25Amp charger to have 100% SOC (assuming they made one)?
    In basic math terms--yes.

    In real terms, you have absorb mode (when the battery is at the 14.5 volt charging and current acceptance of the battery is less than maximum charge current can output (charger is now in Voltage Mode control--vs Curent Mode control earlier when the battery would accept more current than the charger is capable of outputting.).

    The Absorb mode is both slower charging and less efficient charging as some water is being electrolyzed into hydrogen and oxygen gasses. That last part requires ~10% or of battery capacity to finish off the charging (why it takes 110-120% energy to recharge a battery instead of 100%--also there are some other losses, like heating and such that reduce the efficiency of discharging and recharging a battery).
    4) Are you much more confused than you were two minutes ago before you read this?
    We spent most of our school years learning the ideal way things should work. From physics, to chemistry, to government, to history... We spend the rest of our lives learning that none of it is true. :cry:

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • adam1984
    adam1984 Solar Expert Posts: 72 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    GOT IT! Thanks. So last 2 questions to verify I got it. And BB, totally correct. Through 4 years in EE all my circuit theory class was just that, theory. Im quickly learning those "ideal" values are far from reality.

    1)My #3 question, about ideally an 11.25A charger would take 20 hours to charge a 225AH bank, would a 50amp charger take 4.5 hours, ideally with a C/20 charge rate. I see chargers more commonly 50amp than 11.25. But then again, it wouldnt be a C/20 charge rate if it was charging at 50amps/hour, correct? With a 50 amp charger it would be charging at 50amps/hour, which would be the new charge rate?
    2) How is this rate determined. Do the charge controllers have a setting of C/20, C/13, etc.. that you can choose? How do I know what rate the battery is charging at? Is it something i can control?
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V
    adam1984 wrote: »
    GOT IT! Thanks. So last 2 questions to verify I got it. And BB, totally correct. Through 4 years in EE all my circuit theory class was just that, theory. Im quickly learning those "ideal" values are far from reality.

    1)My #3 question, about ideally an 11.25A charger would take 20 hours to charge a 225AH bank, would a 50amp charger take 4.5 hours, ideally with a C/20 charge rate?
    2) How is this rate determined. Do the charge controllers have a setting of C/20, C/13, etc.. that you can choose? How do I know what rate the battery is charging at? Is it something i can control?

    All depends on the bells & whistles you pary for in the charger. The charger controlls it all, sometimes you need a "command box" to program your desired settings into the charger.
    The size of the battery determines the rate you charge it at, and the battery mfg has specs of what rate is safe to use.
    Generally, battery capacity divided by 10, is a ballpark to start from. A 200Ah battery could charge at 20A. more amps = heat & shorter lifetime.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V
    adam1984 wrote: »
    1)My #3 question, about ideally an 11.25A charger would take 20 hours to charge a 225AH bank, would a 50amp charger take 4.5 hours, ideally with a C/20 charge rate.
    The math is correct... But say you charge your 225 AH bank from 0-80%, then absorb the last 20% for 6 hours (tapering charge rate). To charge your battery bank to 100% charge, using two different controllers:
    • 225 AH * 0.80 * 1/11.5A + 6 hours = 15.7 hours
    • 225 AH * 0.80 * 1/50A + 6 hours = 9.6 hours
    It is entirely possible that the 50A charger may only need 2-4 hours instead of 6.

    But--there are so many variables in the design of the battery chargers... What are their programs for charging... How aggressive are there voltage and current points. Are they even capable of outputting rated current for 2-10 hours straight.

    For example, car alternators can be rated upwards of 100 amps--but within a few minutes the alternators start to significantly heat up and drop their continuous current way down (by 1/2 ? +/-)...

    So--quality and design of the of the charger will dramatically affect the charging time on the battery bank and the end point charge of the battery (90% full, 100% full, over charged and overheated, etc.).
    I see chargers more commonly 50amp than 11.25. But then again, it wouldn't be a C/20 charge rate if it was charging at 50amps/hour, correct? With a 50 amp charger it would be charging at 50amps/hour, which would be the new charge rate?

    By the way.. Amps is already a "Rate"... Amp/Hour is not the correct unit (it is an easy and common mistake... Watts/Hour is the same mistake)>

    Regarding your sample charge rate:
    • 225 AH / 50 Amp = 4.5 Hour to recharge or C/4.5 for your example.
    2) How is this rate determined. Do the charge controllers have a setting of C/20, C/13, etc.. that you can choose? How do I know what rate the battery is charging at? Is it something i can control?

    Some chargers simply have a setting on the front panel (or are designed for a particular charging current/application).

    Many of the Solar RE chargers have internal settings for charge rate (to protect the battery or even from overloading a small genset).

    And, some industrial chargers (fork lift, etc.) can even be programmed from a PC.

    Chargers are like anything out there... You can get cheap and simple, or expensive with lots of bells and whistles.

    One recommendation has been to find chargers with Remote Battery Temperature Sensors--Many chargers tend to run hotter than the battery bank--so tend to under charge/slow charge the batteries.

    Also, when fast charging battery bank--as the bank temperature rises, the bank voltage falls--so it is possible for the charger to miss the termination voltage (end high current bulk charging) and cause the battery bank to melt down (probably not often a problem with solar RE equipment--not many people can afford to over size their PV Array or generator charge set to do a C/8 or faster charge rate.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    1 theoretically again as the final 10-20% of the charge will take longer and providing the battery itself is rated for such a deep charge for 50a/225ah=22.22% charge rate.
    the % depends on both the battery capacity and the charge current given to it as a 50a charge current can be a c20 rate if the battery capacity is 1000ah. if the battery bank would be 500ah the 50a charge rate is 10% and is a c10 rate.
    2 i sorta answered that in 1, but you can figure the % by 1 divided by the c value. example c10 =1/10=10% rate. charge controllers generally with pass all current given to them up to their rated current so whatever you give to the charge controller in pv determines what the output will be up to the current limit of the controller.
  • adam1984
    adam1984 Solar Expert Posts: 72 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    GOT IT! I am finding that every question cant be answered with a simple yes and no in this RE field. I am new to the field so this is all great information. Also, i see most questions have so many variables that it is difficult to have one answer. Anyway, your help has been invaluable. 4 years of college did not prepare me for this. Then, it was "How long would a 50amp charger take to charge a 200AH bank, and the answer was 4 hours. I see now that answer didn't even scratch the surface. They should have asked: What is the battery temp? what is the ambient temp? Is this bulk or absorb charge etc etc.... Was not prepared well at all. The theory really doesn't hold up in real world applications. I know this maybe a question for another thread, but Niel, BB, and whoever else, where did you get all this knowledge? Is this from years of experience, classes, research, all 3? I am just baffled by the amount of information i never learned. Everything was oversimplified at my college. I have done extensive textbook research along with blogs and online and am still learning an astonishing amount... perhaps another post for another time.....
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    Years and years of making mistakes. ;)

    The schooling is fine. It gives you the tools to understand the basics--and then look beyond them to understand the real world implications.

    The school of hard knocks period of education can really be seen in the trades. Machining, electricians, carpentry, HVAC, Power, etc... Everything that is passed on through the (now pretty much gone) apprenticeship programs was to provide experience to the young master to be.

    Now you can see why a "new engineer" can get razzed when the walk out on the floor/job sites the first time. "Book Learning" gets a few laughs.

    But--if you can bite your tongue (yes--you did go through 4 years of heck to get your technical degree) and listen to the people around you--the education you will continue to receive will be used throughout your lifetime.

    I spent as much time on our assembly floor as I could (mini-mainframe computers). I listened and helped--and my coworkers on the floor where always more than happy to answer questions and show me where mistakes where made in design. I was about the only engineer that went out to help implement ECO's (Engineering Change Orders)--Whether I was the one that screwed up or just was fixing things that others had ignored for months or years. We all benefited from the exchange.

    In the US--Design engineers tended to come directly from school and go up through the design engineering food chain. A stint through Manufacturing Engineering was considered to be punishment/dead end job. In Japan, all the good designers looked forward to their turn through manufacturing (it was a it was part of the promotion/career path as I understood).

    When you get out--take any advantages for practical experience you can... It will be very rewarding. And listen to everyone.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • niel
    niel Solar Expert Posts: 10,300 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    i couldn't agree more with bb as it is some of life's experiences and interests too. i do have to clarify that although you might think it, we don't know it all. i was thoroughly confused when i got hired once for my degree as a prerequisite and they in turn said for me to forget it as they say what is and what's to be done. i know i scratched my head on that one too, but i didn't care as i got that job.:cool: you shouldn't forget it unless you hit the lottery or stay in unrelated jobs, but even then it'll come right back to you.
    the advantage here is the input from many as it becomes a giant think tank. it isn't just newbies that learn here.:D
  • russ
    russ Solar Expert Posts: 593 ✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V

    When İ worked on a plant commissioning crew around the world we had a rather derisive term for the designers back in office - office engineers.

    Very often designs & installations got cocked up because the guy in the office hade never seen or lived what he designed.

    A mixture of both sides - practical (field) & office (design) is the best solution.
  • solarvic
    solarvic Solar Expert Posts: 1,071 ✭✭✭✭
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    Re: Simple explanation AH vs. V
    russ wrote: »
    When İ worked on a plant commissioning crew around the world we had a rather derisive term for the designers back in office - office engineers.

    Very often designs & installations got cocked up because the guy in the office hade never seen or lived what he designed.

    A mixture of both sides - practical (field) & office (design) is the best solution.
    You are so right. The stuffed shirts hardly ever ask any imput from the person that uses the equipment. They think: What do they know, they are just a bunch of dummys. I remember way back in my earlier working days I operated a core winding machine. They put in a new machine And had some hotshot young engineers sent there to try and figure why this new machine wouldn,t operate correctly. A couple of guys that operated it told them why it wasn,t working. After a month they did what he suggested in the first place.