A GFI outlet is a good safety measure--If you have a MSW (modified square/sine wave AC inverter), it is possible that you will get false trips with a GFI (the MSW waveform can cause the false trip of the GFI).I went with a pure sine wave inverter for better compatibility with any device I may want to use later.All outlets run through the panel in the RV and all go through breakers there, I suppose I could replace the breaker in the outlet (general) branch to be a GFCI breaker and all outlets will then be GFCI by default. The bathroom outlet is GFCI so I could put that first in the line I suppose.One GFI outlet can be wired directly to the inverter output/first outlet on the branch circuit, and you can connect the wiring from that GFI output terminals to the rest of the outlets and you will get GFI protection on all of those downstream outlets too.I suggest you do not use one GFI outlet (or GFI breaker) to protect all AC wiring if you have AC lights and outlets. If you trip the one GFI, it will plunge you into darkness. Two GFI circuits, one for outlet(s), and a second for AC lighting, will leave the lights on if an outlet trips.The lighting is all on the DC side of the panel and all bulbs have been switched over to LEDs.The Wizbang Jr. shunt, as far as I know, is designed to integrate only with some Midnite solar charge controllers. The Wizbang has a digital data output and (at the present time?) does not integrate into any stand alone battery monitors/other brands of charge controllers (the shunt is a standard unit--It is the analog to digital converter board that makes it a Midnite only device).I am wondering if I could run the signal through a raspberry pi to get the data to be useful to other types of meters. Might be worth playing with.Regarding the 70 amp breaker--Looks like it will be fine. As always, read the instructions/specifications for the breaker. Sometimes they have limitations (must mount on vertical surface) or other requirements that you can trip across.Thanks-Bill
This one being COTEK ST2000-148First UL-1741 for home installations, good if you have to pass inspections or have insurance. Cotek is UL-458 for mobile installations. Magnum and Outback are, Exeltech is likely mobile, I think they are actually some telecommunications UL rating I read something on their site about.Many other options, but buy what you need, things that other inverters have that this one doesn't.Wider range of input voltages this one only goes to 60 volts before shutting down. Most high end charge controllers will go to 63-64 volts, so the inverter will not shut down when equalizing FLA batteries. If you stick to your planned agm batteries this shouldn't be a problem.Lower 'no load' energy draw, this uses .70 amps at 48 volts or 33 watts, Exeltech's uses 12 watts, Outback (3600 watt) uses 34 watt, but has a sleep mode at 9 watts, Magnum (4000 watt) uses 25 watts and has a sleep mode of 8 watts. Efficiency in power conversion, Cotek 92%, Magnum 94%, Outback 95%, Exeltech 89% at 1/3rd power (they don't give an overall peak)I believe both the Outback and Magnum have adjustable low voltage shut down points.They will also handle more humidity, likely a coating on electronics, 93% with the Exeltech at 95% Cotek 90%, Important for unheated and cooled locations/boxes outside.Also longer warranties for Magnum and Outback (3 and 5 years) and while Exeltech only has a 1 year warranty, they still claim a MTBF(mean time between failure) in excess of 20 years. and offered (as of a year or 2 ago, can't confirm) a $100 flat rate rebuild of any of their consumer inverters, if repairable.