SG values version 2.1 :-)

elesaver
elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
OK, now I'm getting frustrated.  I had posted about SG levels last week.  Got some advice on that, etc.   I removed the load, set absorbV at 30.5, absorbT at 3'30", disabled EA by setting at 0 to get the SG back up.  It took 2 days of that to get all cells back to 1.285.  The next day, I EQ at 32.5.  Cycle completed.

I thought I was "home free."  I put the EA setting at 9.0, but left the absV and absT the same.  Then, I put the load back on (using from 100-150 aH overnight), checked the SG the next day and it was back down to 1.255!  I left the load attached figuring that the charging for the day would bring things back up.  No, it didn't.  The battery didn't go into absorb or float all day even with lots of sun.

Today, with REALLY a lot of sun, the battery voltage still will not rise above 27.5 (according to WhizBang,Jr) so I've taken the load off again and checked the voltage at the combiner box, took the cover off the cc and checked the voltage.  Both OK.  Then, I checked the battery connections at the cc, the inverter and at the battery itself.

Something seems to be limiting the charge going into the battery but I can't figure it out.  I lowered the absV to 27.5 to get some absorb but there is no gassing. 

If there are suggestions, I would appreciate it because I'm certainly at a loss.  I only know that about 3 weeks ago, I shut the whole system down and when I powered it back up, it has not been the same.  At the time of the shut down, I was not doing anything to the hardware of the actual solar charging system, I was only re-wiring a couple of circuit breakers in the panel.  I remember scrolling through things to make sure that shunt was listed on the MNGP but could I have changed something inadvertently?  I've gone over all that I know to check.
1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

Comments

  • Vic
    Vic Solar Expert Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2016 #2

    Hi elesaver,  Thanks for the Update.

    Please check the Temp Comp Reference temperature  --  it should be 25,  or perhaps 27 degrees C.

    For today,  what does the Classic show as kWh or Ah on the Status screens?

    What Firmware version is the Classic using?
    What is the String Vmp,  or,  the PV String configuration,+ Brand and Model of the PVs?  (cannot remember)
    What is the Vin from the PVs when you have good mid-day sun?   Do you ever see this Vin very close to Vbatt,  often?
    Is the Classic running in Solar Mode ...   or what Mode?

    1.255 SG readings equate to about 90% SOC,  at about 25 C,  IIRC.

    And,  even is the CC says Absorb because one lowers the Vabs to a relatively low value,  that does NOT mean that there is any Absorbing going on.  For your 24 V battery,  Gassing Voltage is about 28.5-ish volts,  so no need to play with Vabs for that purpose.

    More later,  Thanks,   Vic

    Off Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes.  25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel,  Honda Eu6500isa,  Eu3000is-es, Eu2000,  Eu1000 gensets.  Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum.
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
    Kwh in today were 9.3.  (Where did they go?  :)    ) Ah now on WBj is at 963.  Firmware is 1849.  The temp comp reference  point?  I have seen a temperature compensation set point.  It is 28.5.  It does not appear to be changeable.  The first temp comp screen where you put in the -0.5V/c reads 25.5, I believe.

    My 8 panels are 4 strings of 2,  into a midnite combiner box  with string reading at combiner box for each string at 72.1V reading
    at each breaker there.  They are then wired into a midnite solar mini disconnect and then to the midnite classic 200.  Voltage in can be 65-72V or so when it's really cookin'.  No, I don't recall seeing the Vin is close to Vbatt except possibly early morning or late evening.  Yes, classic is running at solar mode.    I had to lower the Vabs to get it to absorb at all since the voltage just wouldn't get high enough.  It did absorb for 3:30 since the EA was at 0 but even with that length of absorb, as you have noted, there's not a lot of absorbing going on.  The sun is down now and the Vbatt is 25.4.  Float MPPT is now trying to bring float up to 27.2 which is where I have it.  Relay is clicking.

    Panels are Axitec model AC-300P/156-72S.  Nominal voltage is 36.73; Impp 8.18 A and short circuit amps 8.18 A; efficiency 15.46%.
    The panels will have been in use 2 years as of this Fall.

    I hope you can make sense of this!
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • Vic
    Vic Solar Expert Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭✭

    Hi elesaver,

    Thanks for the info.

    Your PV string voltage is fine,  just wanted to check.

    9.3 kWh  from 2400 W STC array is good,  and if your battery had been fully-charged the day before  this amount of power harvested should have easily have fully recharged the battery,  IF there were no or light loads on the system today.

    FW 1849 is a good solid version.

    The Temperature Reference point is in the WBjr Setup page (press the Status button three times,  and then the soft button above the "SETUP" in the LCD.  On the left  --  it should be 25 C,  or probably 27 for your battery  (believe that the manufacturer's Reference is 80 F,  about 27 C  --  either one should be fine)  Please check this value.

    You mentioned,  "   ...    I had to lower the Vabs to get it to absorb at all since the voltage just wouldn't get high enough.  It did absorb for 3:30 since the EA was at 0 but even with that length of absorb, as you have noted, there's not a lot of absorbing going on   ...   "   YES,  there was NO real Absorption at all,   if the battery voltage did not get to a real Absorption voltage of about 30 volts for your forklift battery  ...  no need to waste your time,  as,  even when you lowered Vabs that much,  and the CC said "Absorb",  the battery was still being Bulked.   The CC knows only as much about your battery as you tell it.  IF one lies to the CC,  it knows no better.

    Your 72 Cell PVs in strings of two should be dandy.

    IIRC,  you are using the Hydrovolt Hydrometer?   And,  whatever Hydro,  you are pulling  3 - 4 samples before taking the SG reading,   and rinsing the Hydro  4 - 5 times with Distilled Water after a measuring session?

    Am certain that you have seen this Link before,  and have studied the Article:
    http://support.rollsbattery.com/support/solutions/articles/4347-measuring-specific-gravity

    So,  perhaps the previous discharge of the batteries was deeper than you had thought,   and if this was based upon what the WBjr was reporting as Net Ah,  and the Classic has not made its own transition to Float for several days,  the SOC and Net Ah numbers will drift farther and farther from reality,  for every day that the battery does not get fully charged.  These numbers get reset to Net Ah=0,  and SOC to the Ah Capacity that you entered on Setup (but compensated a bit for any temperature compensation  --  the temperature variation from the Reference Temp that you entered in the WBjr Setup screen).

    And so on,  hope that this makes some sense.   Keep at it.  We all need to learn what our batteries are saying to us,  and what we must do to keep them happiest.  You are paying close attention to the batts,  and measuring SGs,  and following the charge process carefully.   This is very good,  and  you are learning what,  if any changes that you need to make.   Good for you.   Please keep us informed.   Thanks,   Vic

    Off Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes.  25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel,  Honda Eu6500isa,  Eu3000is-es, Eu2000,  Eu1000 gensets.  Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum.
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
    Thanks, Vic, for taking time to help troubleshoot this issue.  I have checked the temp ref number and it was at 25.  I changed it to 27 to see if that may help.  Yes, I use the Hydro Volt to measure and use new distilled water to rinse after each measuring session.  When I take a reading, I do express the bulb several times and take multiple readings.  After the 3rd or 4th, I record the number.

    It's new day! Perhaps I'll get some answers today.  My mind has been active on this nearly all night and I can only come up with the fact that I had a load attached and maybe there just wasn't enough amperage going to the battery after the load was serviced.  IIRCC, I had amp readings upwards of 50 from time to time when sun was strong.  That should be ample, in my thinking, but what do I know?! (Apparently I know very little!)  Since the load is reduced today, I should see some positive changes.  I did raise the EA to 5.0 because I don't want to cook these batteries to an early death.  If I don't get the desired result but at least make some progress, I can adjust the EA as I go forward.

    Thanks again, Vic,  You really have a nice way of wording your help.  I appreciate it.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,433 admin
    Do you have a DC Current Clamp DMM (digital multi-meter)? This one from Sears is $60 and good enough for our needs (debugging, checking parallel current paths in solar arrays/battery banks, etc.).

    Also, is your Battery Shunt (precision resistor) in the correct location. In the battery negative bus. One end of the shunt should have only battery negative connections (no loads, charging sources on this terminal). And ALL Negative connections on the other side (any negative connection on the battery side of the shunt will be "invisible" to the shunt--The load/charging current will bypass the shunt).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Vic
    Vic Solar Expert Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭✭

    Good points BB Bill.

    AND  I forgot to mention that you were trying everything that you could do,  to get some Absorb time,  yesterday.    So you lowered the Vabs to 27.5 V.   This is not high enough to Absorb your battery.
    AND,  since Absorb is a voltage-regulated stage (the CC maintains this voltage as long as is needed,  or you run low on sun),  the charge voltage will NOT increase above this value.

    So  having set Vabs at 27.5 V,  probably reduced that total amount of charging the battery received,   perhaps not by a lot,  but,  essentially the CC was stuck in a voltage regulated Bulk stage.

    Again this probably was not a large reduction in the charge of the battery,  but a bit ...  not to be too hard on you elesaver,  you were doing every thing that you could think of at the time to get up to the Absorb V.

    So,  would suggest that you set Vabs UP,  to around 60,  or even 60.5 V (for now,  until you catch up on charging).

    You certainly are welcome for any help that any of this is.   We ALL are learning,  and we ALL have benefited if help form many others on this Forum,  plus,  others will probably benefit from your observations and questions.

    Keep at it,  and please DO check the wiring of the WBjr's Shunt  --  the ONLY cable that should be on the battery side of the Shunt,  is the large cable connecting to the Negative lead of the battery.   ALL other negative connections for the system should be on the other side of the Shunt.

    Good Luck,  and please do keep us informed.   Seems that you are almost there.    Vic

    Off Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes.  25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel,  Honda Eu6500isa,  Eu3000is-es, Eu2000,  Eu1000 gensets.  Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum.
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
    Wiring on WBjr is correct and I do check the amps into the battery via clamp meter.  I will set the Vabs higher...although yesterday it wouldn't have helped because Vabs wouldn't raise.  I finally tweaked it up to 28.5 but by then, it was 4:30 pm. 

    If there is charging today, then it would point to the fact that the load was too high to run and charge at the same time.  Jury is out, though.  We'll see.

    Thanks for the help and suggestions.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
    Yesterday, there was charging and the system went into both absorb and float mode.  Looks like the load was too great to both re-charge and power the load. 

    BUT, that brings another question:  I put the kill-a-watt meter on the freezer last night at 8 pm.  and read the useage at 8 am today.  Overnight, the kwh use was 0.65.  So, with a 24 volt system, isn't that 27 amps?  I also had a refrigerator on the load which I will measure the use again when I complete the full 24 hours with the freezer.  It shouldn't be too much higher than the freezer, I would think.  All of this to say, I don't understand why I wouldn't have enough power coming in during the day to re-charge this battery.  On Saturday, I saw levels of amps in registering up to 55 and 60.  No, that doesn't stay constant, of course, but there was enough sun (total kwh in was 9.3) that I would've thought I was OK.

    What has apparently happened is that I was watching the ah on the whizbang, along with the battery voltage.  It began "slipping" down but I didn't realize the SG was becoming lowered.  By the time, I knew, I was in a hole and couldn't come out.  BUT, after removing the load and getting the SG stabilized and then running an EQ, I'm surprised that it happened again so quickly.

    All of that to ask this:  forklift batteries apparently need higher values going in, etc.  So, by putting the absV at 35.5 and the float at 28.2 and the absT at 4 hours with EA at 5.0, I may be able to support my loads without causing too much drain on these batteries?

    Anyway, thanks for listening and the advice.  I'm getting there.  There is just no easy solve.

    By the way, when the absT is changed, it doesn't register right away.  I tried to change it this morning from 3'30 to 4' and it has stayed at 3'30.  Does it not change until overnight?

    Thanks again.  Life is good.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,433 admin
    edited July 2016 #10
    Try a few answer here...
    • 650 Watt*Hours per day * 1/0.85 inverter eff * 1/24 volts nominal = ~32 Amp*Hours of DC energy (@ 24 volts) per day
    • 9,300 WH per day charging * 1/29 volts charging = ~321 AH @ 24 volts charging
    • 321 AH * 0.80 typical worst case lead acid battery eff = 257 AH @ 24 volts "available" for loads (or recharged that amount of loads--Remembering that when battery is full, the charge controller stops harvesting solar energy--except that needed to sustain day time loads).
    • 2,400 Watt array * 0.77 typical panel+controller derating * 29.0 volts charging (typical) = 63.7 Amps MAXIMUM typical charging current I would expect under optimum non-winter conditions, 10% common peak most of the time (noon time, maybe a few times a week with very clear air, battery still in bulk or just entering absorb--no haze, etc.).
    The above numbers are sort of "worst case"--Did not account for AC inverter tare losses (idle current when inverter is on but no loads--That can be easily 20 watts * 24 hours = 480 Watts more or less).

    35.5 volts is pretty high for Absorb charging (usually used to "correct" badly balanced cell SG and/or low overall "charged" SG for battery bank). Monitor battery temperature (get a remote temp LCD thermometer), monitor water usage (don't want to add water more often than ~1x per month), and gassing (some gassing is good--A "rolling boil" for 4 hours is not--watch heat and water usage).

    Try to keep battery under 95F (on average)--Avoid going over ~110-115F (or whatever your battery mfg. has as maximum operating temperature) ever. Reduce charging current/voltage (stop equalization) when batteries get too hot.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • SolarMusher
    SolarMusher Solar Expert Posts: 176 ✭✭✭
    elesaver said:


    By the way, when the absT is changed, it doesn't register right away.  I tried to change it this morning from 3'30 to 4' and it has stayed at 3'30.  Does it not change until overnight?

    No, it will only change on next classic cycle.
    A+
    Erik
  • Vic
    Vic Solar Expert Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭✭

    Hi elesaver,

    You said,  "   ...   All of that to ask this:  forklift batteries apparently need higher values going in, etc.  So, by putting the absV at 35.5 and the float at 28.2 and the absT at 4 hours with EA at 5.0, I may be able to support my loads without causing too much drain on these batteries?   ...   "

    Forklift batteries DO generally need higher Vabs,   and Veq than other FLAs,  because they generally have somewhat higher SG electrolyte  (1.285 SG for your battery,  IIRC),  and also because they are about the tallest batteries that we will find in general use (tall batteries generally need a lot of Gassing to help mix out Stratified electrolyte).

    You do not need to increase the Vabs to 35.5 V.  When your battery voltage rises to about 66 V,  IIRC,  your Inverter will shut down.   Also,  when the Vabs is increased  the target EA will generally need to be increased,  or  the battery will probably not ever get down to that low EA value.   You should not ever need to set Vabs at or above the voltage range suggested for an EQ by the battery manufacturer.   The Classic can supply a large output current to your loads,  even with the suggested Vfloat,  as long as there is good sun.   For systems that spend considerable time in Float,  with high Vflt have batteries that experience more positive plate erosion than necessary.   Vflt should be set,  such that a fully-charged battery just,  barely  stays fully-charged.

    Your battery has substantial Ah Capacity.  Large changes in charge parameters might be fine when in panic mode,  and trying to get the SGs up as quickly as possible.   BUT,  generally,  once that is accomplished,  one would probably want to make charge parameter adjustments in fairly small steps with larger batteries.   Otherwise one can spend a lot of time chasing one's tail.

    Just opinions,   Vic


    Off Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH X2@48V, 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes.  25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel,  Honda Eu6500isa,  Eu3000is-es, Eu2000,  Eu1000 gensets.  Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum.
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
    OK.  Let me see if I am interpreting Bill's post.  From the calculations there, it would appear that I have enough solar input to handle replenishing of overnight battery draw down  of 150 aH? 

    Also, I understand that I need to once again get the SG up and then make small changes to keep it up.  Strangely enough, the manufacturer told me that once it was stabilized, I wouldn't have to worry about it!  I guess I wasn't thinking in the way that he was since I didn't worry about it and things went south.

    I'll keep tweaking, so to speak with the Vabs, going up a tenth or two-tenths per day while increasing the EA on an incremental basis.  I want the absorb cycle to initiate and complete while keeping the SG at 1.285.  I think the float value needs to be up a bit, too.  Got it.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,433 admin
    edited July 2016 #14
    Elesaver, I am sorry, but I forgot where you are located... Say Greenboro NC:
    http://solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.html

    Greensboro
    Average Solar Insolation figures

    Measured in kWh/m2/day onto a solar panel set at a 54° angle from vertical:
    (For best year-round performance)
    Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
    3.52
     
    3.89
     
    4.76
     
    5.02
     
    5.16
     
    5.05
     
    Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
    5.05
     
    4.81
     
    4.79
     
    4.75
     
    3.86
     
    3.44
     
    An average July day ~ 5.05 hours of sun (average):
    • 2,400 Watt array * 0.52 typical off grid AC system eff * 5.05 hours of sun (July) = 6,302 WH of AC power per day ave
    • 6302 WH per day / 24 volt battery bank * 1/0.85 (back out AC inverter eff) = 309 AH @ 24 volts of DC power per average July day
    Of course, you should never plan on taking 100% of "predicted" production (some days more, some days less, usually your loads, on average would be ~65% to 75% of predicted production (allow days for extra loads, bad weather + recharge, etc.).

    For your system--Our typical/optimum rule of thumb is ~25% discharge for two days, to 50% state of charge (for longer battery life):
    • 938 Amp*Hour * 0.25 = 235 AH @ 24 volt "recommended discharge
    Now, whether you charge (only) during the day and use power only during the night... Or say use 1/2 of 235 AH during a "normal" night, and save the other 1/2 for day time loads (i.e., during bad weather/no sun, your loads are only supplied by the battery bank)--That is up to your needs (some people work during the day, others only run a fridge 24x7 and the rest of the loads at night, etc.).

    It is nice to have "extra" solar power--You want to be able to recharge the battery bank quickly/fully with normal loads after 1-2 days of bad weather (i.e., normal loads + bad weather energy recovery).

    -Bill

    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
    Thanks, Bill. Because it appears that the daily energy production and the draw down that I allow each night is not too much, my problem has surfaced due to incorrect settings on the cc.  I am monitoring the SG closely rather than watching the aH on WBjr and working to get the settings so that absorb is reached each day (sun permitting) and float is achieved.  We'll see how it goes.

    Thanks again.  I appreciate being able to come to this board for help, although I truly do hate to admit my foibles. :)
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)

  • elesaver
    elesaver Solar Expert Posts: 185 ✭✭
    Thought I'd give an update.  In short (to prevent the need to re-read this entire thread), I was having trouble getting the charging needed to keep my batteries in good shape.  I went to the Midnite forum to explain the problem but many of you are there, too, so nothing was really working to fix this.  Then, I called tech support at Midnite.  The first suggestion was to return the cc to the factory defaults.  I did that and after another day of the same performance, it was determined that they needed to have a look at it.  Turns out that the control board needed to be replaced so it looks like all may be well.  The unit is on its way "home," so I will be re-installing it before too long.
    Hopefully, it's going to perform like a pro and I'll be smiling once again.  I can always hide the bald places where I had pulled some of my hair out!

    Thanks for all the suggestions and attempts to help.  Apparently nothing would've worked.
    1st system:  24Vsystem with 8 X 300W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 150, Outback VFX 3524 with mate, 2 X 12V  fforklift batteries in series 938 aH,  (Outback PSX transformer, Honda EU3000is...not currently hooked up but available if/when needed)

    2nd system:  24V system with 4 X 310W panels, Midnite Solar combiner box, Midnite Solar mini-dc disconnect, Midnite Solar Classic 200, Cotek 1500W pure sine inverter, Trojan 125 batteries (8 available but "currently" using 4)