Best Battery Clamps for use with 4/0 AWG Copper wire and loads of 1,300 watts continous?

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lolcashcow
lolcashcow Solar Expert Posts: 118 ✭✭
Hi Guys!

Brock just gave me a great idea for my inverter set up that I have in mind. He suggested battery clamps (Crocodile clamps/Jumper Cable Clamps?) instead of ring terminals /w Anderson Connectors. I think if this can be done it would be a better approach for my set up since I feel much more comfortable using jumper cables than the Anderson Connectors; plus I plan on moving to a different electric car in a few months so it would save on re-installation/rewiring.

This is what I currently have:

The inverter:  Xantrex prowatt sw2000 (1800W continuous 3000 Max Surge)
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5191-Terminal/dp/B0019ZBTV4
Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP 
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-250A-Terminal/dp/B0026KY6R0
Blue Sea Systems 250 AMP MRBF Terminal Fuse
Anderson SB350 Connector up to 450 Amps

Copper Cables: #4/0 AWG <--- I still need to buy the cables..... and now I need the Battery Clamps....

So I will basically not need the Anderson connectors. I don't know if the Fuse & Fuse Terminal can be used with this new approach of using Battery Clamps instead of the Anderson Connectors. Brock suggested that I still use a Fuse on the positive cable just to stay safe.

What type of fuse will I need for this set up to replace the 250 AMP fuse and terminal? Do I need a special type of fuse? Or can the fuse that I have now just dangle around?....

Something else I am worried about is the Battery Clamps not clamping well enough? There seem to be a lot of different shapes for the Battery Clamps (Jumper Clamps?) and I was wondering what is the best shape for use with the positive Terminal on the battery? I see some with teeth others no teeth. Some more curved others more flat, etc. My battery has SAE Terminal Posts, but it already has a battery clamp (From the car) so this Battery Clamp I will use with the 4/0 cable would have to go over the car's battery clamp.

Here is a pic of my car's battery clamp.

httpiimgurcom5a4tcvIjpg


For the negative connection I will be using the Battery Clamp (Crocodile Clamp?) on the car's Chassis ground because the negative terminal on the battery has a sensor that you aren't supposed to clip anything to.

Then basically on the other end that goes to the inverter I will just have regular ring terminals which is what the inverter needs. The Battery Clamps just sound so much easier to use than the anderson connectors plus easier to set up and can be used on other vehicles also which I think will be quite handy.

The main thing I will run with the inverter is an induction cooker that has different cook settings. I feel I will likely draw around 1,000 watts to 1,300 watts while using the induction cooker... but it can draw more though I doubt I will use the higher settings. The car is electric and can provide the needed power (as far as I have read). I will also use a blender sometimes, but the power requirements on it is only a fraction of what the induction cooker needs so it should be fine.

Uhm.. anything else I should be worried about or that I might also need to buy? I'm a total noob as you guys probably already noticed...

Thank you!

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  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
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    Brock just gave me a great idea for my inverter set up that I have in mind. He suggested battery clamps (Crocodile clamps/Jumper Cable Clamps?) instead of ring terminals /w Anderson Connectors.
    That is a terrible idea.  Those clamps do not make a stable connection. 

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • littleharbor2
    littleharbor2 Solar Expert Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Why are you running an inverter and cooking off your car battery? Another terrible idea.

    2.1 Kw Suntech 175 mono, Classic 200, Trace SW 4024 ( 15 years old  but brand new out of sealed factory box Jan. 2015), Bogart Tri-metric,  460 Ah. 24 volt LiFePo4 battery bank. Plenty of Baja Sea of Cortez sunshine.

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    A "multi fuel" camp stove can run off of anything you have around:

    http://thenextchallenge.org/liquid-multi-fuel-stoves/

    Fuels can include various combinations of: White gasoline (Coleman fuel), unleaded gasoline, kerosene, diesel, canisters (propane), alcohol (a few multi-fuel)

    Not the easiest (can be a bit of pain to run multi-fuel stoves)--But better than running a $30,000 car to heat some water for coffee.

    -Bill


    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • mike95490
    mike95490 Solar Expert Posts: 9,583 ✭✭✭✭✭
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    Do not use Jumper Cable Clamps (gator, spring, gripper)  They are only for a short term use (2 minutes) and can easily slip off the posts when you are not looking. Or they dig into the lead terminal and slowly nibble off a piece and then fly off the connector.
     Anderson Connectors are MUCH better and safer.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • Brock
    Brock Solar Expert Posts: 639 ✭✭✭✭
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    lolcashcow I forgot what your setup was for, for loading like that I would agree a solid connection is better, in my case I move my inverter from place to place and from vehicle to vehicle so have clamps works for my situation as I can't put anderson connectors on all the vehicles or battery's I connect to. 
    3kw solar PV, 4 LiFePO4 100a, xw 6048, Honda eu2000i, iota DLS-54-13, Tesla 3, Leaf, Volt, 4 ton horizontal geothermal, grid tied - Green Bay, WI
  • oil pan 4
    oil pan 4 Solar Expert Posts: 767 ✭✭✭✭
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    Have you ever seen 4/0 cable?
    For 1300 watts you only need 0 or 1 gauge.

    But it sounds like you just need a camp stove.

    Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.

    Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.

  • lolcashcow
    lolcashcow Solar Expert Posts: 118 ✭✭
    edited June 2016 #8
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    Well thanks guys that idea died pretty quickly! I actually used to use a propane stove but I am trying to move on to electric because I was not comfortable using the propane and carrying it in my car :(  I can always go back to it.... I did use it for a little over a year but I'd rather not go back ! I do long hours in my car  and I basically cook x3 times a day there. Its that or paying $10 a pop for meals I like to eat :(
  • oil pan 4
    oil pan 4 Solar Expert Posts: 767 ✭✭✭✭
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    Propane is the most expensive source of heat.
    Try a gasoline fuelled stove.
    A 1lb propane cylinder, contains about 20,000BTU and costs 2 to 3 dollars or more.
    You know how much a gallon of gasoline costs and it contains around 125,000BTU.

    Solar hybrid gasoline generator, 7kw gas, 180 watts of solar, Morningstar 15 amp MPPT, group 31 AGM, 900 watt kisae inverter.

    Solar roof top GMC suburban, a normal 3/4 ton suburban with 180 watts of panels on the roof and 10 amp genasun MPPT, 2000w samlex pure sine wave inverter, 12v gast and ARB air compressors.

  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,447 admin
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    Alcohol is used for marine stoves. It is not too aggressive chemically (if you spill it, and water will help pick it up). Plus you can put alcohol fires out with water (gasoline and kerosene float on water).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset