Tiny House Solar

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meestro
meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
Greetings PV geniuses,

I have encountered countless links to this wonderful resource as I continue to wrap my mind around a solar setup for our upcoming Tiny House. This will not be a roof mount operation.

My goal is to ease into the solar and this is what I have come up with thus far (many gaps need to be filled, I am sure):
* (2) Renogy 150W mono RNG-150D panels
* (1) Tracer 3215RN 30A MPPT Charge Controller
* (1) Xantrex PROwatt SW 2000
* (1) Xantrex transfer switch
* 4/0 wiring
* (2) Trojan T-105 batteries at 12V

The goal is to start with this initial setup before the house is finished, to run a minimal setup, and as budget allows, to double the panels and batteries.

If I crunch numbers correctly, the Amps from the PV for the battery is within the recommended 5-10% range for both the initial and final setup. I obviously need to look into fuses and such, and not sure if it would be good to go with a fuse that allows growth for stage 2, or to optimize fuses for each stage?

Please enlighten me if this setup does not seem correct in any way. The 'shore' connect on the house will be 30A, and I intend to use the Xantrex relay switch for the shore/OG detection and switching.

The most power we plan to draw is a non-continuous mini-split AC, possibly 1000W, 8.9amp.

If there are any particular posts that would be good stickies for my inquiries, I would appreciate those links. Thanks!

Mike C

Comments

  • meestro
    meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
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    Another area I would like to examine is charging the batteries when solar isn't sufficient. If I have access to shore power, would the Xantrex TrueCharge2 40a be a wise option? I would prefer to avoid the gas generator/IOTA charger path if possible. Thanks!
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
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    let's get back to basics.... what is it you plan to power and for how long? All good systems work because they were well researched and planned out.. Also a little info on the size of your Tiny House would help us understand limitations etc...btw your comment about shore power is critical at this point as it gives you much more flexibility vs PV only....
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
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    If you have shore power--Get a Kill-a-Watt type meter and run your home on it first--Like Westbranch/Eric says, knowing your loads is key to designing a successful off grid power system.

    It is pretty hard to "grow" an off grid power system... It is sort of like buying a VW bug and slowly "tricking it out" to eventually get a Cummin's powered dually pickup. Could it be done, yes. It is a good use of your time and money, not usually.

    Picking your appliances to be "solar friendly"--Low surge current, very efficient, etc. --- It is usually cheaper to conserve vs generate your power.

    If you want lights, small water pump, laptop computer, cell phone charging... You can get away with a 1,000 Watt*Hour per day system (1 kWH per day, 30 kWH per month).

    As soon as you add a refrigerator, washing machine, deep well pump, you are looking at around 3,300 Watt*Hour per day (3.3 kWH per day or 100 kWH per month)... That is a medium size system that will cost you $10,000 to $20,000 or so.

    A relatively efficient home in the city--10,000 WH per day (10 kWH per day or 300 kWH per month).

    The typical North American home with natural gas/propane is probably in the range of 600-1,000 kWH per month).

    Energy usage is a highly personal set of choices. What would work for me and my family may not for you.

    We have people here that live on 1,000 WH per day and think they have more than enough electricity for their daily needs--Although, they would have chosen to go with an electric refrigerator vs propane powered for a near full time off grid home.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • Brlux
    Brlux Solar Expert Posts: 73 ✭✭✭
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    My initial thoughts are to get a better quality charge controller. You want one you can adjust the bulk and float voltages to the battery manufacture recommendations. Correct me if I am wrong but I was under the impression the tracers were not adjustable? You also should have a charge controller with an external temperature compensation probe to go on or near your batteries as their charging voltages change with temperature. A name brand MPPT charge controller in the same 30A range like a Midnight Kid or Morningstar Tristar 30 MPPT is going to run you around $350 but will be much better on your batteries. If you needed to stay in the same price range as the tracer and you were ok with not having MPPT I would recommend a Morningstar Tristar 45.

    You might also consider an inverter with transfer switch and charger built in, this could simplify the installation. You might have luck finding one used locally like craigslist or something. There were some Xantrex models used in RVs that could be a good fit. That PROwatt SW 2000 may work ok for plugging things in to but if you intend to hard wire it in to the wiring in your tiny house get an inverter designed for hard wiring with AC screw terminals on it or you might blow up the SW 2000.

    I am a fairly big proponent of sine wave inverters for how much better they run motors and they are nicer on your electronics over the long run but I think If I was in your position I would choose a used solid performing modified sine wave inverter charger for similar price to the consumer quality sine wave unit. Something like this. http://ventura.craigslist.org/pts/5077417928.html
  • meestro
    meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
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    POWER CONSUMPTION
    - Nature's Head Composting Toilet fan: Drawing less than 2amp hrs in 24hr period.
    - LED lighting (low wattage recessed, 50W max)
    - Ceiling Fan with 3 LED lights (12.8-50.4W fan, 24W lights)
    - Honeywell desk fan (32W max)
    - 9000BTU mini split AC Heatpump (890-1000W)
    - (2) Philips WhisperFit 80CFM vent fans (20.4W each, 40.8W total)
    - Eccotemp FVI12LP tankless water heater (2 Amps, runs on propane)
    - Vissani 4.5 cu ft refrigerator (rated 235KWh)
    - Panda XPB36 washing machine (120-240W)
    - MacBook Air (45W to charge every 2-3 days)
    - Xantrex PROWatt SW2000 inverter (< .8 A no load)
    - Xantrex Inline Transfer Relay Switch (max 15A at 80ms)
    - Xantrex TrueCharge 2 battery charger (unsure power consumption)
    - Tracer 3215RN 30A charge controller (unsure of no load consumption)

    Perhaps a food processor (450W) will run time and again, but we can also look to do this manually if needed to conserve. If running the AC on solar is overkill, we can use shore for this. For any offgrid heating, I can use a 400W heater instead of the 850W from the mini split.
  • meestro
    meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
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    Brlux wrote: »
    My initial thoughts are to get a better quality charge controller. You want one you can adjust the bulk and float voltages to the battery manufacture recommendations. Correct me if I am wrong but I was under the impression the tracers were not adjustable? You also should have a charge controller with an external temperature compensation probe to go on or near your batteries as their charging voltages change with temperature. A name brand MPPT charge controller in the same 30A range like a [URL="http://www.solar-electric.com/inverters-controllersaccessories/chco/misoclchco/midnite-solar-kid-mppt-charge-controller/midnite-solar-kid-mppt-solar-charge-controller.html"]Midnight Kid[/URL] or [URL="http://www.solar-electric.com/inverters-controllers-accessories/chco/mochco/admpchco/morningstar-tristar-ts-mppt-30.html"]Morningstar Tristar 30 MPPT[/URL] is going to run you around $350 but will be much better on your batteries. If you needed to stay in the same price range as the tracer and you were ok with not having MPPT I would recommend a [URL="http://www.solar-electric.com/inverters-controllers-accessories/chco/mochco/stpwmchco/trts12vochco.html"]Morningstar Tristar 45[/URL].

    You might also consider an inverter with transfer switch and charger built in, this could simplify the installation. You might have luck finding one used locally like craigslist or something. There were some Xantrex models used in RVs that could be a good fit. That PROwatt SW 2000 may work ok for plugging things in to but if you intend to hard wire it in to the wiring in your tiny house get an inverter designed for hard wiring with AC screw terminals on it or you might blow up the SW 2000.

    I am a fairly big proponent of sine wave inverters for how much better they run motors and they are nicer on your electronics over the long run but I think If I was in your position I would choose a used solid performing modified sine wave inverter charger for similar price to the consumer quality sine wave unit. Something like this. http://ventura.craigslist.org/pts/5077417928.html
    The inline relay allows hard wiring for the xantrex
  • Brlux
    Brlux Solar Expert Posts: 73 ✭✭✭
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    Yes but research neutral bonding ground on inverters, many of the consumer level ones not designed for hard wiring burn up when the service panel bonds the neutral to ground.
  • Brlux
    Brlux Solar Expert Posts: 73 ✭✭✭
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    Looks like you are correct about the transfer switch being setup for using a PROWatt for hard wiring.

    The reviews on the TrueCharge 2 seem mixed.

    I would just suggest considering the cost of the PROWatt, TrueCharge 2, and transfer switch against the cost of an inverter charger built for this aplication. Keep your eyes out on Craigslist. I know it is of little help to you in Bakersfield but a quick search near me turned this Outback VFX 2812-M for just over $1K.
  • vtmaps
    vtmaps Solar Expert Posts: 3,741 ✭✭✭✭
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    Don't paint yourself into a 12 volt corner. Start out with 24 volts.

    Those xantrex Trucharge battery chargers are not cheap. Start out with an inverter-charger. Overall it will be a simpler system to wire up and the transfer switch is built in.

    One other thing: if your house is tiny, try to put the batteries and electronics outside of the house. You may be dismayed by the audible and RF noise these things make.

    --vtMaps
    4 X 235watt Samsung, Midnite ePanel, Outback VFX3524 FM60 & mate, 4 Interstate L16, trimetric, Honda eu2000i
  • 2twisty
    2twisty Solar Expert Posts: 199 ✭✭✭
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    I started with a small system -- and I grew mine. So it IS doable, but you have to be careful with what components you buy.

    My initial system was 12v. I had:

    4x 230w panels
    8 6v GC2s wired in series/parallel (4 parallel strings! YEEK!)
    Cheapy HF 2000/4000 12v MSW inverter
    PowerMAX 100A 12v smart charger
    Classic 150 Charge controller.

    Knowing that i planned to move to 24 or 48V later, I bought a charge controller that could handle my expected system size down the road. To minimize the amount of wasted money, I bought a cheap HF inverter to tide me over until I could buy a good PSW inverter.

    Later, I added more paners (5 more) and 8 more batteries and an Outback VFX3648 inverter. The only tech I had to get rid of was the 12V inverter and 12v charger.

    Since I still maintain a small 12v system to power some 12v stuff and keep the generator battery full, I am still using the charger -- so the only thing that was "wasted" was the cheapy HF inverter, which only cost $129 on sale.

    SO, with careful thought and research of where you want to wind up, you CAN minimize the wasted money -- but you have to have done all your planning homework first. One place that I didn't plan as well as I should have was in my batteries. I should have started with 8 L-16s and then grew them to 16 L-16s rather than GC2s. Having more than one string of batteries is not optimal, but I feel that 2 parallel strings is the reasonable maximum. I could use more battery capacity than I have now, but that would also mean adding more panels so that I could charge them properly.

    As it is, we reach float almost every day, and only draw the batteries down to about 76% SOC overnight. I'd rather see that number in the upper 80s (hence the desire for more storage, and therefore more panels), but I can live with it -- during the day we have enough power to run our fridge and freezer, a swamp cooler and sometimes a window AC if we get to float early enough. At night, we have the fridge and freezer on timers to shut them off from 11pm to 6am, so my night draw is usually around 200W constant all night -- I could make that less by shutting down the media server and wifi, but we've decided that we want to leave that on and we're OK with the power it uses.

    All of our lighting is LED except for the CFL "bug light" on the porch. I haven't found (or really looked hard) for an LED bug light. However, since the porch light isn't on for very long, the fact that it uses 20w instead of 10 is really not that big of a deal. The porch light is usually on for only a few minutes at a time.

    So, PLAN PLAN PLAN PLAN PLAN. Use a Kill-A-Watt. Design your "final" system -- where you want to be for the next 5-10 years. Then, if you can't afford to buy all that at once, very carefully examine your plan to see where you can cut costs, but at the same time, minimize how much tech/money you will have to "throw away" later.
  • boomadge
    boomadge Solar Expert Posts: 25 ✭✭
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    Do some research on the tracer charge controller as it does not allow user input for various battery voltages. First hand knowledge on how limited that tracer series really is. You will save yourself money and agravation in the long run if you go with midnite the kid or Morningstar tristar.

    I hate to see people end up wasting there money so I have to add that the tracer says it's got a battery temp sensor but it's internal and not remote so it's useless , the controller is preset to equalize the batteries once a month at its preset voltage , time with neither adjustable and no force equalize. No amp current control, the list just goes on.
  • meestro
    meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
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    Thanks for the heads up on the Tracer. I'm still green to a lot of this, and the idea of management details never crossed my mind. If I am planning to go with a 30A shore power connection, would the 30A MPPT controller from Morningstar Tristar be sufficient? I realize the shore and OG aren't directly related, but what I mean is with 600W of panels, will the 30A version of the Tristar work fine, or is the 45A really necessary? When would it be necessary? Thanks!

    As for the Kill-A-Watt,it is certainly on my list, but many of these items will be in a new install, and thusly aren't currently manageable. I was hoping to build the solar ahead of time, rather than wait for the full install and build of the house and appliances. I suppose some of those appliances I can check now. Thanks!
  • 2twisty
    2twisty Solar Expert Posts: 199 ✭✭✭
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    Yup. You can measure anything that you're taking with you, and at least get some idea of what other items (fridge, etc) use. Yopu can buy a Kill-A-Watt at Harbor Freight. I think they are about $20.
  • Brlux
    Brlux Solar Expert Posts: 73 ✭✭✭
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    The process you are going through is similar to many first starting out, including myself. It is fun to get some equipment and feel the thrill of having a working system. But generally results in geting the wrong equipment for your ultimate needs and learning through trial and error what you actually need.

    The loads listed will likely require a system several times larger than you are planing.

    Please explain the shore power availability vs need for solar. It sounds like generally shore power will be available where you plan to park your Tiny House but perhaps you want solar for the odd occasion it is not available and perhaps for the fun and coolness factor of having solar?

    Perhaps a small solar system to run some lights, computer, and a few small loads on occasion would be better. Then invest in a good inverter generator like an EU2000i which can run your larger loads several hours a day with good fuel economy and little noise.
  • boomadge
    boomadge Solar Expert Posts: 25 ✭✭
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    My thoughts exactly brlux,
    FYI I have the Model:HVDR450SE 4.5 visani fridge/freezer and it's 68 watts startup for approx 30 seconds then drops to 50 watts, full cycle time is 10 minutes and is roughly 30 watts when it cycles off. Seems to run 10 minutes shut off rest 25 minutes like clockwork with setting of 3.
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
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    meestro wrote: »
    - MacBook Air (45W to charge every 2-3 days)

    Understand the difference between a Watt and a watt hour. So it draws 45W, but for how long?. Mulitply the two to get watt hours. Then you have an energy budget, total Wh needed per day. THEN you can start desiging.

    You also need to get a sense of the actual draw. It might say 45W on the adapter, but thats its max rating. Measuring it (or researhing) will yeild a more accurate result. Imagine hypothetically it only draws half that in practice. You just cut the cost of your solar system in half?

    For example: from practice i know a certain 30W adapter uses about 10W and about 20W when its both powering the device and charging it at the same time.
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • meestro
    meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
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    I definitely understand the difference between wattage and watt hour, I just had no means of measuring this before. I have a Kill-a-Watt on order from Amazon, so it should arrive by the end of the week and I can start measuring. Our current parking spot will have shore power available, but it isn't always guaranteed, so I would like to operate with the understanding that we can't simply rely upon it always. And in places where it is available, I would also like to reduce reliance upon it, so as not to create more of a burden on their power bill management.
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
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    there have been comments about which is more efficient use of PV power, to leave the PC plugged in 24/7 or as needed...

    No definitive answers, if you were to test the theorem....?
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • lkruper
    lkruper Solar Expert Posts: 115 ✭✭
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    meestro wrote: »
    Greetings PV geniuses,

    I have encountered countless links to this wonderful resource as I continue to wrap my mind around a solar setup for our upcoming Tiny House. This will not be a roof mount operation.

    My goal is to ease into the solar and this is what I have come up with thus far (many gaps need to be filled, I am sure):
    * (2) Renogy 150W mono RNG-150D panels
    * (1) Tracer 3215RN 30A MPPT Charge Controller
    * (1) Xantrex PROwatt SW 2000
    * (1) Xantrex transfer switch
    * 4/0 wiring
    * (2) Trojan T-105 batteries at 12V

    The goal is to start with this initial setup before the house is finished, to run a minimal setup, and as budget allows, to double the panels and batteries.

    If I crunch numbers correctly, the Amps from the PV for the battery is within the recommended 5-10% range for both the initial and final setup. I obviously need to look into fuses and such, and not sure if it would be good to go with a fuse that allows growth for stage 2, or to optimize fuses for each stage?

    Please enlighten me if this setup does not seem correct in any way. The 'shore' connect on the house will be 30A, and I intend to use the Xantrex relay switch for the shore/OG detection and switching.

    The most power we plan to draw is a non-continuous mini-split AC, possibly 1000W, 8.9amp.

    If there are any particular posts that would be good stickies for my inquiries, I would appreciate those links. Thanks!

    Mike C

    What are your objectives? I understand that RVs will boondock from time to time and not have shore power, but a Tiny House? If you have shore power all the time then you will never justify solar for financial reasons alone. Batteries are expensive.

  • meestro
    meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
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    There isnt a guarantee of shore power. It depends on our location as, like an RV, nothing is permanent. I have the Kill-A-watt hooked into the fridge. I'm getting an average of 61-62w operating power from the refrigerator. I see .28kwh as well. We have it at a 4 setting, but I could test it lower, as suggested above.
  • lkruper
    lkruper Solar Expert Posts: 115 ✭✭
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    meestro wrote: »
    There isnt a guarantee of shore power. It depends on our location as, like an RV, nothing is permanent. I have the Kill-A-watt hooked into the fridge. I'm getting an average of 61-62w operating power from the refrigerator. I see .28kwh as well. We have it at a 4 setting, but I could test it lower, as suggested above.

    Where are you going to put the batteries? You will need ventilation to use Flooded Lead Acid batteries. Do you have a compartment separate from your living area?

  • meestro
    meestro Registered Users Posts: 9
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    The idea would be a dedicated battery box to the side of the house, a la the Tack family (Chris and Malissa).
  • westbranch
    westbranch Solar Expert Posts: 5,183 ✭✭✭✭
    Options
    depending on size of the bank, that is a lot of weight. You may want to consider having them up front on the hitch frame or at the back so as to balance the extra weight out ..., remember 10% of the units weight should be on the hitch...
     
    KID #51B  4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM
    CL#29032 FW 2126/ 2073/ 2133 175A E-Panel WBjr, 3 x 4s 140W to 24V 900Ah C&D AGM 
    Cotek ST1500W 24V Inverter,OmniCharge 3024,
    2 x Cisco WRT54GL i/c DD-WRT Rtr & Bridge,
    Eu3/2/1000i Gens, 1680W & E-Panel/WBjr to come, CL #647 asleep
    West Chilcotin, BC, Canada
  • zoneblue
    zoneblue Solar Expert Posts: 1,220 ✭✭✭✭
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    meestro wrote: »
    I'm getting an average of 61-62w operating power from the refrigerator. I see .28kwh as well.

    To reiterate, in this game units are everything. 62W is the motor running power, not the day average? And 0.28kWh is 0.28kWh/d?

    What you need for appliance testing is the kWh PER DAY. Thats the only useful metric to you. Set a stopwatch (or zero the power meter) and run the fridge for at least a day (while the fridge environment is at a typcial ambient). Divide the total kWhs used, by the total number of days eg 1200Wh / 1.08 days. THEN you have the figure you need for your energy budget. You can also safely use this figure to meaningfully compare fridges.

    BTW if 0.28kWh is per 24.0 hours, then if so thats a nice efficinet fridge. Hang on to it!
    1.8kWp CSUN, 10kWh AGM, Midnite Classic 150, Outback VFX3024E,
    http://zoneblue.org/cms/page.php?view=off-grid-solar


  • inetdog
    inetdog Solar Expert Posts: 3,123 ✭✭✭✭
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    zoneblue wrote: »

    To reiterate, in this game units are everything. 62W is the motor running power, not the day average? And 0.28kWh is 0.28kWh/d?

    What you need for appliance testing is the kWh PER DAY. Thats the only useful metric to you. Set a stopwatch (or zero the power meter) and run the fridge for at least a day (while the fridge environment is at a typcial ambient). Divide the total kWhs used, by the total number of days eg 1200Wh / 1.08 days. THEN you have the figure you need for your energy budget. You can also safely use this figure to meaningfully compare fridges.

    BTW if 0.28kWh is per 24.0 hours, then if so thats a nice efficinet fridge. Hang on to it!
    The OP has a Kill-a-watt, so he does not need to go the stopwatch route. When he says that the KAW shows an average of 62W, I hope that we can assume that is for a 24 hour or longer period.

    Now, if there is a significant day/night ambient temperature difference a test time such as 36 hours would not give the most useful results.
    SMA SB 3000, old BP panels.