Wind / Sun Solar Controller

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ILFE
ILFE Solar Expert Posts: 364 ✭✭
Hi,

New member here. I have been lurking for a bit.

Anyway, can anyone offer advice as to which company they would consider going with, to buy a solar controller having both wind and solar inputs?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide this newbie.
Paul

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  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller

    In general, finding a "combined" solar+wind charge controller is not going to be a good idea (and there are not many, if any, good quality wind+solar charge controllers).

    Solar panels can use "series" type charge controllers. I.e., need charging current, turn on the switch and current flows from the solar array to the battery bank. Battery full, turn off the switch. All is fine.

    With most horizontal axis wind turbines (that traditional types of turbines) need loading of the battery bank all the time. If you disconnect (turn off) the connection to the battery, even in moderate winds, most HAWTs will over speed and self destruct. So, the "standard" wind controller is a "shunt" (or "dump") type controller. You connect the controller to the battery bank and when the batteries are full, the controller turns on and sends the current to (typically) a resistance heater (air or water) to prevent the battery from over charging.

    You can mix controller types (series or shunt) on the same system. Or, you can even connect your solar+wind turbine directly to the battery bank and use just a shunt controller (large enough load to sink both full sun and full wind output).

    But--The details are that shunt controllers do not do a very good job at "properly" recharging a battery bank.

    Series controllers are available in two different types--PWM (pulse width modulation or "on/off" switch) and MPPT (maximum power point tracking--a digital power supply that can efficiently take high voltage/low current from the array and "down convert" to low voltage/high current for the battery bank). For various reasons, many times MPPT series controllers are almost required for many types of solar arrays.

    So the typical solar+wind system would have a PWM/MPPT solar charge controller plus a shunt (or two shunt controllers for safety) controller to dump excess wind power.

    And to make things even more complex, there are MPPT series controllers for Wind Turbines too (you can dramatically increase the output of a wind turbine with the proper MPPT type charge controller--does a better job of "matching" the current/voltage (IV) profile (curve) of the turbine to the IV curve of the battery bank).

    Lastly, I am not a big fan of small wind. You need to have a tall tower in a pretty windy region to harvest "useful" amounts of power from a wind turbine. And most commercial small wind turbines are not worth the money to even install (tower, concrete, wiring, electronics are usually way more expensive than the wind turbine itself).

    So, for most people, Solar + Backup (gasoline/diesel/propane, etc.) backup generator are better investment of time and money. At that point, if you still want to research/try wind, you can always add it to your system.

    We have a few people here that have wind systems and are very happy with them... but they live in regions that have poor winter sun and/or flat prairie (plains) with very high average wind speeds. Usually, you need to mount the turbine on a 18 meter tall tower minimum (really 27 meter or taller tower) and well above any local obstructions (buildings, trees, etc.).

    One interesting way to find your minimum tower height is to fly a kite and see how high it need to get for "clean" air flow. Flying a wind turbine in turbulent air will cause its useful output to fall to near zero.

    I can give you links to some good charge controller companies--But you are 1/2 a world away. You probably have easier access to Chinese/Asian charge controllers.

    There are a lot of PWM (simple) "cheap" solar charge controllers out there. Some of them even work pretty well (look for good metal case with heat sinking--plastic cases do not let the heat out and therefore the electronics tend to fail pretty quickly). MPPT type charge controllers--There are fewer companies out there that make these complex (and more expensive) charge controllers in Asia. And many of the "MPPT" Asian charge controllers are just PWM types that have "MPPT" stenciled on the outer case.

    Anyway--Before you buy any solar/wind equipment--Do you have a good idea about your power usage? Have you "conserved" as much energy as possible (it is almost always cheaper to buy very efficient appliances and conserve vs trying to generate solar/wind/fossil fuel power).

    Once you know your power needs (and how much sun you get by month/season), then we help you size the battery bank and solar array. From there, you can start looking at the best hardware for your needs. Solar RE systems are not easy (or cheap) to expand. It is better to design the system to your loads vs just purchasing hardware, wiring it up, and see what happens.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • ILFE
    ILFE Solar Expert Posts: 364 ✭✭
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller

    Thank you for the very informative reply.

    Regarding parts, I will probably order the controller from a more reputable companies, like Morning Star. I know of no reputable Chinese manufacturers for controllers.

    BB. wrote: »
    Anyway--Before you buy any solar/wind equipment--Do you have a good idea about your power usage? Have you "conserved" as much energy as possible (it is almost always cheaper to buy very efficient appliances and conserve vs trying to generate solar/wind/fossil fuel power).

    Once you know your power needs (and how much sun you get by month/season), then we help you size the battery bank and solar array. From there, you can start looking at the best hardware for your needs. Solar RE systems are not easy (or cheap) to expand. It is better to design the system to your loads vs just purchasing hardware, wiring it up, and see what happens.

    In my case, the reason for going with alternative energy is to have reliable, stable power. Here, the power goes out far too often for me. If I generate my own power, at least I know when / if I will have a power cut. :)

    On average, we get about 5.11 Sun Hours per day for the whole year. The voltage here is 220vac, 50 hz.
    All the lights, appliances, and electronics that I need to run (and not all at once), comes to a total of 700 watts. This includes a refrigerator that draws 1.13 Amperes. I thought about adding other appliances to that list. But, to conserve, I really don't have to have a rice cooker (400 watts), a kettle (1,500 watts), or a toastie maker (750 watts) to run on solar. Each of those appliances can be substituted on the gas stove here.

    The only appliance I am not 100% sure of is the refrigerator. What I mean here is, when I check it with the clamp on ammeter, it reads .77 of an Amp. I would thought that it would draw more than 1.13 Amperes to start. But, 1.1.3 is what is on the power requirements label.
    Paul
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller

    You've got the right idea: conserve first, generate second.

    You'll actually be looking at "European Standard" power: 230 VAC @ 50 Hz. The refrigerator will definitely be the big power user. Don't be too sure that the info given on things is correct, such as "1.13 Amps" for the 'frige: that is 260 Watts and pretty high consumption for most refrigerators. Although it may be that high if it is old. Normally they pull less than 150 Watts.

    The other thing is run time. Since a refrigerator is not actually on all the time, the duty cycle will add up to different amounts of kW hours from one day to another (depending on ambient temperature and how often you open the door). It will also need enough inverter to get the compressor started, and that will be a lot more than 260 Watts - but only for an instant.

    If you have grid available you can use it in conjunction with batteries & inverter to see the critical applications through any outages or brown outs. I've done several system of that nature. I don't know how much your utility power costs, but full off-grid solar is very expensive over here and probably no cheaper where you are (although you might get Chinese panels for less than we do because you're closer).

    BTW, my daughter was recently in Cambodia working with Dentists Without Borders. She absolutely loved the country! Probably bought half the clothes available there. :p
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller

    If you don't put the refrigerator on your system--You can probably get away with a pretty small 300 Watt 12 volt TSW inverter from MorningStar (they do have a 230 V 50 Hz version). A really nice inverter with remote on/off and "search mode"--Can really save a lot of energy (a smallish inverter "idling" can consume 6-20 watts with no loads, larger inverter can be 20-60+ watts). Really nice inverter feature set for a small/inexpensive 12 volt inverter.

    You can probably run everything on 1 kWH per day (1,000 watt*hours or ~80 AH @ 12 volts per day--lights, laptop charger, small water pump, cell phone charger, etc.).

    As soon as you throw an AC refrigerator in the mix--Then you are looking at probably a 3.3 kWH per day system (or about 3x as large). I don't know anything about what "standard" refrigerators draw in your region or how "energy efficient" they are (usually, US refrigerators tended to be energy hogs in years past). For an AC refrigerator, you are usually looking at a 1,500 watt or larger AC inverter (TSW -- true sine wave -- inverter highly recommended if you can swing the price -- MSW may work OK but is questionable at times -- no way to really predict without trying), usually a 24 volt minimum battery bank, etc.

    Any way--Just to give you an idea of a minimum of 4.0 hours of sun per day (you still want to run the fridge in the rainy season--And in some areas it can get down to 2 hour of sun per day during monsoon season)... 3.3 kWH per day, full off grid system, 2 days of energy storage, 50% maximum battery discharge (for long life)--"Balanced system design". Use 5% to 13% rate of charge for battery bank:
    • 3,300 WH * 1/0.85 inverter efficiency * 1/24 volt batter bank * 2 days of storage * 1/0.50 max discharge = 647 AH @ 24 volt battery bank

    To recharge the battery bank at 5% to 13% rate of charge:
    • 647 AH * 29 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.05 rate of charge = 1,218 Watt array minimum
    • 647 AH * 29 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.10 rate of charge = 2,437 Watt array nominal
    • 647 AH * 29 volts charging * 1/0.77 panel+controller derating * 0.13 rate of charge = 3,168 Watt array "cost effective maximum"

    And need to figure out how large of array based on 4 hours of sun minimum (for less than 4 hours per day, you will need to use grid power or backup generator):
    • 3,300 WH * 1/0.52 system efficiency * 1/4.0 hours of sun per day = 1,587 Watt array minimum based on 4.0 hours of sun per day

    So, a 3.3 kWH per day system would "like" around 1,587 to 3,168 Watt solar array to meet the above guesstimate. A 1 kWH system would simply be 1/3.3 times smaller.

    Nothing magic about the numbers (anything within ~10% is "the same"). My assumptions are just to get a back of the envelope "close" so you can figure out equipment needs and costs.

    Many people that have unreliable grid power will do a system install "step wise":
    1. Battery Bank + AC Inverter + AC Battery charger
    2. AC Backup Genset
    3. Add solar panels as funds permit.

    So, step #1 is nothing more than a "whole house" UPS (uninterruptable power supply). Simply use the battery bank when the utility power is down (like hot afternoons, for a day after a windstorm, etc.).

    Use the genset for 1-2 week power outages (fuel storage and where to purchase fuel during wide spread outages is always an issue).

    And use solar for the 1-multiple month power outages (or going "off grid").

    If you have utility power but it is unreliable--It is usually hard to justify the costs of a full off grid power system (powering refrigerator, A/C, cooking, etc.).

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset
  • ILFE
    ILFE Solar Expert Posts: 364 ✭✭
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller
    You've got the right idea: conserve first, generate second.

    Filipinos actually taught me how to conserve electricity, as well as other resources. I lived there for over a decade. Growing up and living in the US, well, we didn't really know what "conserve" meant, where I come from anyway.

    You'll actually be looking at "European Standard" power: 230 VAC @ 50 Hz. The refrigerator will definitely be the big power user. Don't be too sure that the info given on things is correct, such as "1.13 Amps" for the 'frige: that is 260 Watts and pretty high consumption for most refrigerators. Although it may be that high if it is old. Normally they pull less than 150 Watts.

    The other thing is run time. Since a refrigerator is not actually on all the time, the duty cycle will add up to different amounts of kW hours from one day to another (depending on ambient temperature and how often you open the door). It will also need enough inverter to get the compressor started, and that will be a lot more than 260 Watts - but only for an instant.

    The ref isn't very old. Seems to run okay. Cools / Freezes great. I keep 1.5 liter water bottles for the ref and freezer compartments. As food is used, I replace it with water. When returning from shopping, we take the water out and fill it with food. Nothing better than keeping it stocked full. Oh, it's only 5 or 6 cubic feet.

    So, would a 1,000 watts voltage inverter be okay? I realize this would not allow for future expansion. But, I don't see needing much of anything else to be added, with the exception of television, later. (They offer wireless HD television locally. Unlike the local cable providers here, if you have continuous power to the receiver and your television, you can continue to watch television even during a power cut.)

    If you have grid available you can use it in conjunction with batteries & inverter to see the critical applications through any outages or brown outs. I've done several system of that nature. I don't know how much your utility power costs, but full off-grid solar is very expensive over here and probably no cheaper where you are (although you might get Chinese panels for less than we do because you're closer).

    Oh, we have power here, for sure. In fact, they are building a new plant - coal fired, not far from the main part of town here. How much of that power we will receive, when the plant goes online, is the question at hand.

    Power costs here vary, widely. More than anywhere I have lived in Asia. Personally, I now pay 720 Riel / Kwh. This is about .18c US / Kwh. How does that compare to where you live?

    Do you think Chinese made parts are okay to purchase for alternative power generation? I have been a bit skeptical to purchase any of it, honestly.

    BTW, my daughter was recently in Cambodia working with Dentists Without Borders. She absolutely loved the country! Probably bought half the clothes available there. :p

    I have lived here just over a year. Previously, I resided in the Philippines for more than eleven years. In between there and here, I lived in Thailand for a little while. I moved to Asia, originally, at 34 years old. I love living in Asia, but not so much Cambodia. If it were not for the fresh air due to living by the sea, and the ease of visas here, I would not stay. I do have my Filipino girlfriend and baby living here with me, at least.
    Paul
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller
    ILFE wrote: »
    The ref isn't very old. Seems to run okay. Cools / Freezes great. I keep 1.5 liter water bottles for the ref and freezer compartments. As food is used, I replace it with water. When returning from shopping, we take the water out and fill it with food. Nothing better than keeping it stocked full. Oh, it's only 5 or 6 cubic feet.

    So, would a 1,000 watts voltage inverter be okay? I realize this would not allow for future expansion. But, I don't see needing much of anything else to be added, with the exception of television, later. (They offer wireless HD television locally. Unlike the local cable providers here, if you have continuous power to the receiver and your television, you can continue to watch television even during a power cut.)

    A good 1kW inverter probably would do it. One example: http://www.solar-electric.com/exxp12vol11w.html
    A cheaper one like a Samlex/Cotek might not. You do want pure sine for motors, no matter what anyone else might tell you. If it's in the budget, go for 2kW. You probably do not need to get a built-in charger (pushes the price up) but a stand-alone battery charger just for Bulking when needed would be a good idea. If you can get 24 Volt, that would be better. Otherwise with a 12 Volt unit make sure your batteries and cables are very good so that the Voltage doesn't sag too much when the compressor comes on (sudden high current demand).
    Oh, we have power here, for sure. In fact, they are building a new plant - coal fired, not far from the main part of town here. How much of that power we will receive, when the plant goes online, is the question at hand.

    Oh good: filthy coal power. Bet they have no smokestack regs at all. :roll:
    Power costs here vary, widely. More than anywhere I have lived in Asia. Personally, I now pay 720 Riel / Kwh. This is about .18c US / Kwh. How does that compare to where you live?

    Almost double what we pay in BC, Canada. But many places in the US have much higher rates (and extremely complicated rate schedules). Still, off-grid power tends to be even higher than that. $1 per kW hour (amortized equipment cost) is not unrealistic for OG.
    Do you think Chinese made parts are okay to purchase for alternative power generation? I have been a bit skeptical to purchase any of it, honestly.

    You can hardly get anything but Chinese made panels these days. They aren't bad if they're a quality brand; it's all about how much the company cares. Many a rejected "name brand" panel will be sold off as a "no name" too. But that is a total gamble. People here have had good luck with panels like Yingli, for example. What's more, many inverters and charge controllers are made in China but have "US" branding. Some are made in USA, but with imported parts. The "known brand" is a better guarantee of quality, but not perfect.
    I have lived here just over a year. Previously, I resided in the Philippines for more than eleven years. In between there and here, I lived in Thailand for a little while. I moved to Asia, originally, at 34 years old. I love living in Asia, but not so much Cambodia. If it were not for the fresh air due to living by the sea, and the ease of visas here, I would not stay. I do have my Filipino girlfriend and baby living here with me, at least.

    I know a fellow in Thailand too. World traveling is not for me anymore; going to the Big City is my idea of a major excursion these days! I'll stay here in the Cariboo with our fresh air too, thank you! :D
  • ILFE
    ILFE Solar Expert Posts: 364 ✭✭
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller
    BB. wrote: »
    If you don't put the refrigerator on your system--You can probably get away with a pretty small 300 Watt 12 volt TSW inverter from MorningStar (they do have a 230 V 50 Hz version). A really nice inverter with remote on/off and "search mode"--Can really save a lot of energy (a smallish inverter "idling" can consume 6-20 watts with no loads, larger inverter can be 20-60+ watts). Really nice inverter feature set for a small/inexpensive 12 volt inverter.

    At this point, I would be happy just to have power 24 hours per day. :D

    Seriously, though, I know guys here who have lost everything in their refrigerators, due to the power having been cut for too long (14 - 20 hours) here. Fortunately, this doesn't happen very often, though. But, even the short time power cuts here are irritating, at best.

    Perhaps, I just need to consider starting my system, as you have suggested here:
    BB. wrote: »
    Many people that have unreliable grid power will do a system install "step wise":
    1. Battery Bank + AC Inverter + AC Battery charger
    2. AC Backup Genset
    3. Add solar panels as funds permit.
    Generators here are cheap, but noisy as can be. I enjoy my peace and quiet, which is why I have looked into alternative power, other than using a gen-set.

    Attached is a PDF file I recently received, but I question the quality of the units., as they are Chines made.
    Paul
  • Cariboocoot
    Cariboocoot Banned Posts: 17,615 ✭✭✭
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller
    ILFE wrote: »
    At this point, I would be happy just to have power 24 hours per day. :D

    Seriously, though, I know guys here who have lost everything in their refrigerators, due to the power having been cut for too long (14 - 20 hours) here. Fortunately, this doesn't happen very often, though. But, even the short time power cuts here are irritating, at best.

    Perhaps, I just need to consider starting my system, as you have suggested here:

    Generators here are cheap, but noisy as can be. I enjoy my peace and quiet, which is why I have looked into alternative power, other than using a gen-set.

    Attached is a PDF file I recently received, but I question the quality of the units., as they are Chines made.

    Generators don't have to be noisy. Inverter-generators aren't. They are more expensive. There are many knock-offs now of the Honda units. Again, the name loss can mean quality loss as well.

    Don't bother with a MSW inverter. Get a good one, decent batteries, and an AC charger to start with just as Bill suggested. Enough battery capacity to keep the 'frige going for a day should work out for you and save that major loss of food.

    Refrigerator will probably use around 1 kW hour per day. On a 12 Volt system that's roughly 100 Amp hours, times at least two to keep from discharging below the 50% level. This is sort of the basic refrigerator back-up system: 1kW to 2kW inverter, two "golf cart" batteries (220 Amp hours @ 6 Volt), and a 15 - 20 Amp AC charger.
  • BB.
    BB. Super Moderators, Administrators Posts: 33,439 admin
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    Re: Wind / Sun Solar Controller

    Remember it is "layered" power here... If your outages are less than 1-2 days--Then the battery bank will be fine with AC charging.

    If you go 2-14 days solid without power once every few years, a good Honda or Yamaha "Inverter/Generator" is hard to ignore (or even some other non-inverter generators too). Just run it for ~6 hours or so every day or two to keep the batteries reasonably charged until the power comes back.

    Otherwise, you are looking at solar arrays--Which make much more sense if you are using them for 9+ months of the year or must have power for a month/longer power outage.

    Power is a highly personal choice. But money to do things can be a deciding factor on how you approach your "ideal" solutions.

    In California, for small amounts of power, around $0.10 per kWH... For folks with A/C and businesses, they can pay upwards of $0.50 per kWH in the summer afternoons.

    -Bill
    Near San Francisco California: 3.5kWatt Grid Tied Solar power system+small backup genset