Battery Lugs and Crimpers?

ligwydligwyd Posts: 57Registered Users ✭✭
Hello there,

What are the most highly recommended battery cable lugs to use with 4/0 high strand copper wire?

These would seem to be most likely among the best avail. I would think?

I used these ones below and I am sure they will be fine, however the industrial lugs linked above may have more surface contact due to the square shape of the lug (provided your battery terminal is square of course)

Just looking for some feed back/expertise from those who have some experience to share.

John







Comments

  • mike95490mike95490 Posts: 7,902Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    edited September 19 #2
    For batteries, you DONT want the sight hole, which lets in acid vapor
    Copper, tin plate, welded seam are all good.  To get it sized right for the flexible MTW (don't use welding cable, use Machine Tool Wire) you need lugs designed for that cable.
    And a hydraulic crimper.  The 36" manual handles only work when used by the Samsonite Luggage Gorilla.
    Our host caries the lug for standard wire, maybe they can special order the other style, or just buy premade

    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • Marc KurthMarc Kurth Posts: 446Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Mike, why machine tool cable? Seems like boat cable (UL 1426 (BC-5W2)) with tinned conductors and acid resistant insulation is a good choice? I do not have any expertise in wire/cable, so I am honestly asking- because i have seen a lot of it being applied.
    I will say that I have seen many cable failures due to the wrong connectors/crimper/technique being used. With 2000+ strands in a 4/0, I agree that you have to know what you are doing,

    I always have more questions than answers. That's the nature of life.
  • mcnutt13579mcnutt13579 Posts: 47Registered Users ✭✭
    I have not seen UL1246 but maybe it is a regional thing. 

    It needs to also have some rating found in the NEC.  Most common here would be DLO which also carries a RHH/RHW rating usually.  (Check before buying.)  Lots of people use welding cable or other non-code types anyway but there may be inspection issues.

    Get whatever you can that is found in the code.
  • VicVic Posts: 2,906Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    edited September 19 #5

    Hi John,

    Personally,  would buy cables of the required length,  with lugs crimped from a reliable vendor,  such as these:
    https://www.solar-electric.com/49075.html

    In the USA,   the cables,  generally available ARE MTW,   and  would meet our Codes,   YMMV.

    The battery interconnects are also available from the same vendor.

    For Canada,  MTW cable may be acceptable.   Am sure that there are a number of reliable vendors there that can provide a perfect solution that will meet your Codes.

    IMO,  the required Crimper/Dies  are expensive   ...   why go to that expense for something that may not be used very often,   when you can have cables made to your exact requirements?   The cable stranding dictates a certain exact lug,   and die.   Change the stranding,   and a different die is needed.   At the currents that can exist in this circuit,   crimping perfection is very important   ...

    AND,  regarding the inverter cable lengths,   the shortest possible length is the best.   Typically  inverter manufacturers recommend a maximum length of about five feet (sorry - not metric).   Longer cables can create stability problems.

    Just my opinions,   Good Luck,     Vic

    Off Grid - Two systems -- 4 SW+ 5548 Inverters, Surrette 4KS25 1280 AH [email protected], 11.1 KW STC PV, 4X MidNite Classic 150 w/ WBjrs, Beta KID on S-530s, MX-60s, MN Bkrs/Boxes.  25 KVA Polyphase Kubota diesel,  Honda Eu6500isa,  Eu3000is-es, Eu2000,  Eu1000 gensets.  Thanks Wind-Sun for this great Forum.
  • mike95490mike95490 Posts: 7,902Solar Expert ✭✭✭✭
    Boat cable is good cable, but may not be rated for building use
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister ,

  • ligwydligwyd Posts: 57Registered Users ✭✭
    edited September 19 #7
    There is a cable I can get up here called TEW. It is tinned 2000+ strand and UL listed and can get at good price. Will look into it as much as I can before buying it. I can get this cable cheaper than the bare copper cable I purchased originally and it gets delivered in a couple days as opposed to three weeks.

    When I look at all the Hexagonal Crimpers that are out there they all seem pretty universal in the sizing of the die. There is some T&B specialty industrial lugs that may require narrow or wide crimp die and Quick Cable makes a MAX lug that is thin wall, requires its on die and can be soldiered (which I don't like the idea of). I guess passing a pull test on a test crimp might be the only real way to tell if you've got a good crimp, in addition to buying the right lugs and crimper to begin with of course.

    Maybe I'll go to the shop that made up my last cables and look at the equip they are using. The only reason I was considering making my own is that you can run the cables and then mark the measurement exactly, and before crimping, position the rotation of the lug exactly where it needs to be, so you don't need to twist the cable at all afterwards. Not so bad with longer cables but with shorter inter-connect cables I would like to have little to no strain on the battery terminals.

    The best priced tools I could find (not always or very rarely the best choice) are these linked below:



    These tools might be a little better:

    And these right from Quick Cable:

    I would really like to learn to do perfect crimps but will have a little more research to do before forking over the cash to get set up.
    I guess I just really enjoy this type of work :)

    Feedback/ constructive criticism always appreciated :)

    John






  • mcnutt13579mcnutt13579 Posts: 47Registered Users ✭✭
    I have both crimpers.  I prefer the hydraulic one though Chinese, it may fail at any moment, but it is a beast thus far.  The hand one takes some effort even at #4.  Hate to use it on real cable.

    The handcuff cutter is smaller and it's what I use mostly.

    I don't find TEW in the NEC but MTW is in there. I don't know the CEC.  But lots of wires have multiple ratings.  RHH, RHW, XHHW, THWN, any will do for your application.
Sign In or Register to comment.