Nvreloader wrote: »
"You can, or if you can access the wires--Just clamp one wire at a time."
I have access to the fuse panel, and ALL the RV circuits are fused/labeled there,
would that work?
"They are loads you don't know about (something that draws power when the device is turned "off" is an example).
For simple power systems, you probably do not have any loads... However, you don't really know until you measure and find out."
How would it be possible to stop those Phantom Loads, pull the fuse?
like the radio etc, which is never used, because we can't receive any signals etc.
You LOST me on this, I believe you are referring to the PU, when you posted this,
"With the DC clamp meter--Play with your care and see how it works (head lights on/off, engine on/off--Alternator running, etc.)."
and the below info,
How do I "FLIP" the meter??
"Note that the DC meter will have a +/- direction indication for current flow. If you "flip" the meter, the current sign will change."
Catalytic sensors represent a large number of gas detector devices that are manufactured today. This technology is used to detect combustible gases such as hydrocarbon, and works via catalytic oxidation. The sensors of this type of detector are typically constructed from a platinum treated wire coil. As a combustible gas comes into contact with the catalytic surface, it is oxidized and the wiring resistance is changed by heat that is released. A bridge circuit is typically used to indicate the resistance change. [FONT=&]
Did not know about this info,
"If you do have the cutoff on the battery, you still must be sure to reconnect the battery every 30 days and do an overnight charge (except in the middle of winter when you can get away with not doing it for a month or two)".
Reason for doing this??
Mountain Don wrote: »
With the cutoff pulled the system will not charge the battery even if plugged in. That's why they state to reconnect for a half day or so every 30 days. In winter every 30 days is not usually necessary as cold batteries self discharge more slowly when cold.
Nvreloader wrote: »
Since these panels are going to be roof mounted, and subject to high wind loads etc etc,
I had planned on making a 1-1/2" x 1/8" thick Alum angle frame work AROUND all panels,
and will include tilting legs attached to this frame work for both side and length ways tilting, if needed.
The standoff feet, to be mounted on the roof and securely attached with 3-SS screws/waterproofed etc,
will be 3" wide x 4" tall and made from 1/8" thick Alum "L" feet.
The reason for these tall feet is to provide plenty of air space under the panels and assist when doing maintance around these panels etc,
and provide a better angles for mounting the panels, as I have a double compound angles on the roof I have to deal with when mounting the panels.
Would it be adviseable to used 1/4" SS bolts or SS Rivet nuts?? for the tilting adjustment hardware attachment??
Never used them (rivet nuts) before.
Suggestions or other Ideas??
40' Crown bus with 2kW of panels on the roof:
Eight tiltable Sharp 255W, two Morningstar TS-MPPT-60, Magnum MS2000, Champion C46540 generator converted to propane, eight golfcart batteries eventually, and maybe a smaller inverter for the fridger.